Chain Saw Choice / Gloat

You'll be happy

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Seeing a friend's 290 in action is what prompted me to buy a slightly bigger one. That 290 was impressive and would be a great choice for most woodturners.

Regarding the bar(s) - nobody will regret having a longer bar as they do come in handy, but you're better sizing the bar to the task. The saw will handle better and be safer, too. You can always cut smaller stuff with a larger bar, but not the other way, so if its only one bar you're looking at, for me, I'd choose the 20". You can, and probably will, choose to buy smaller bars down the road.

Now about that chain - rip chain and standard chain have little in common, and rip chain isn't something to be toyed with. Keep the grind on your chain that it comes with - you can do plenty of ripping with that standard 3/8" chain your Stihl will come with. No need at all to go changing things around. That can get dangerous, too. I find having 2 chains for each bar is very handy. One more thing about the chain - be prepared to sharpen it often - the first time you hit a rock, or even earth, you'll dull it to the point of near uselessness.

Enjoy that saw - it'll be hard not to.

CharlieVA - thats the saw you recently picked up, right?

Re: Chain Saw Choice / Gloat

Raymond Overman in SC

>Congratulations Steve. As a recent Husqvarna purchaser with an 18" bar I've got a question for you. How large a bowl blank are you looking at cutting?

One thing to think about is general usage of the saw. If you aren't going to be cutting trees that are over 40 inches wide and your lathe won't handle large blanks like mine (only 11" diameter) you may want to go with a more agile saw and shorter bar.

I didn't think the difference would be that big but handling my father's 14" bar and my 18" is considerable. You'll definitely think about it taking a 20" bar to limbing up the bradford pear in the front yard. Of course if you need the bigger bar you need it.

One more thing Steve

Mike Schwing from Md.

>And Raymond's post made me think of it. I like the longer bars because I work with large trees - my lathe will swing 20". Most of the trees I work with have already been bucked into manageable sections, and I ask the log cutters to cut me trunk sections 20" long. That allows me to make single cuts through them lengthwise with my 25" bar. This makes things much easier when you bring blanks to the bandsaw, as whenever you can get through a log in one pass, vs having to "go round to the other end" as well, you have a nice flat surface for the bandsaw (or faceplate).

In any rate, what I'm getting at is try to arrange it so you have a saw that will cut a length that is slightly longer than your max swing. It makes things way easier when they can be done in one pass.

Re: One more thing Steve

Raymond Overman in SC

>Exactly why I went with the 18" bar Mike. I can take a 14" length of log and feel a little safer making my lengthwise cut without the overkill of the longer bar. Not that you should ever feel completely safe with a chainsaw. When I save up for my larger swing bowl lathe I'll have to add in a little extra for a new bar and chain I guess.

Personally I have no need or desire to lug around a 25" bar and chain right now and don't feel like I need to compensate for anything by doing it. (No offense and that was a joke!)

Just remember, Happiness is a warm chainsaw!

Re: Chain Saw Choice / Gloat

Steve Roxberg

>Well, I only have a Jet 1236 today, so about 11" is the max. I do however plan to purchase one of the larger Powermatic lathes with either a 20 or 24 inch swing.

My neighbor has a 16" homelite that I will probably continue to borrow for the small trim jobs.

I may slip back to the 18, the 4hp motor will be nice on the 290.

Mike, which saw did you buy the 310?

MS360 Pro

Mike Schwing from Md.

>I bought the Pro version because it is quite a bit lighter and I'm only 145lbs. myself. I have 14, 18, 20, and 25 inch bars for it. Use them all! Running chainsaws kills my back.

***chant***...

BubbaBob

>...POO-lan...Poo-lan...Poo-lan...

BubbaBob

Re: You'll be happy

Tony Costine

>I don't want to disagree with anyone...but I'm going to (kind of!). I'd go for the 036...er...MS 360 is what they call it now. It's the best trade-off between Pro quality and lightweight there is (I think).

Plenty of power, let the chain do the work.

As to chain...if I were you I'd do what I did: get several extra chains ground to a 10 degree angle for ripping, and do it when you get the saw. No point in screwing around. The 10 degree cuts VERY well in hardwood--the saw guy I use tells me that in years gone by all the old timers used a ten degree angle because it lasted longer--and pretty well in softwood.

And it makes ripping a heck of a lot easier.

Go with the 18 inch bar. It's easier to work with.

--Tony (trying to figure out why my nose keeps bleeding, in Contoocook, NH)

Get you.......

W.C. Turner

>some saline nasal spray for those dry passages!

Re: ***chant***...

Jeff Rich

>I will have you know I have had my $88 Poo for 2 years running good and cutting as good as ever....

I have went thru a few chains and a new longer bar..

Re: Chain Saw Choice / Gloat

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>I have the same saw with the 20 inch bar and think they compliment each other nicely. For anything smaller, I prefer an electric, for anything larger, I'd get a pro Stihl (or Husky if I was of that persuasion).

Re: Chain Saw Choice / Gloat

Sam Dean

>Hi Steve,

I have that very setup, MS290 W/ 20" bar. Don't get me wrong, I love the saw, but if I knew what I know now, I probably wouldn't have purchased that model. The 290 is set up to pull an 18" bar through just about anything like butter. The 20" on the other hand is pushing the limits of the saw just a bit.

I find myself at the local city dump site for most of my wood, and most of what they dump there is old growth, usually a displaced or diseased street tree. Just today I was trying to slab up some red oak; The tree was about 50 inches in diameter, laying in a pile of other large trees. Let me tell you, a plunge cut to cut out some chunks of wood with the 20"-290 is no fun at all. Just not enough power or bar length. If I had to do it again, I should have started somewhere around the 440 with a 30"+ bar, and bought a small cheap saw for limbing around the house.

Now, I have the saw and am kind of stuck in the middle. If I want a bigger one, it's another $600 I have to spend on top of what I already have. If I already had the bigger saw, the total long term investment would have been much less.

Thanks,

Sam

Re: You'll be happy

Charlie Anderson in Southern Maryland

>Yes, that's what I have! Haven't really used it since that day at the log dump, except to make sure the oiler was working properly.

Re: Chain Saw Choice / Gloat

Dick Hines

>You don't need a rip chain. When you get your chains get the most aggresive cutting ones you can get. They will rip just fine.

I had a chain ground to a ripping chain but don't like it. It does OK for ripping but if I wanted to cut another round it worked the saw, and m,e to hard.

Mike was talking about rocks. Also keep your chain away from dry wall screws. I made a cutting bench and used dry wall screws. Well I managed to hit one, more than once. Good by chain.

Re: Chain Saw Choice / Gloat

Wood Spinner

>STEVE

I have two of the 310, an 18" and a 24. The long bar stayes in my pickup and the other in the shop.

I went to the 310 because the dealer told me that is the smalest with the wide chain. Cutting some green wood the bar will bind on the smaller chain width.

I do find the 24 a little tough to start as I have to put it on the ground and put my foot in the handle. The 18 can be hand held and started.

Both are great saws.

Good turning and be safe

Bill in Casa Grande, AZ.

Re: ***chant***...

Jerry Whitaker

>I have had two Poos, neither one any good which equals poo poo.

Re: Chain Saw Choice / Gloat

Peter Teubel

>I just bought a Stihl 390 a couple months ago after using a friend's 290 for a week. Its a true joy to use! You will *NOT* be dissappointed.