Signing your work?

Re: Signing your work?

Barry Turner

>I use a Dremel engraver. It's less conspicuous than a Sharpie, doesn't fade and is permanent. If I use a Sharpie or anything with black ink, it seems that any mistake or misspelling is accentuated all the more.

Re: Signing your work?

Duane C.Leach

>Hi Kevin

I have tryed many different typs of pens over the years. Some costing big $$$.The ink on some is to then and spreads out to much or runs with the grain. Some takes to long to dry. Some the color looks un professional.

The best I have found and use on most typs of wood is UNI-BALL Deluxe Fine Point by Sanford.Black ink.

I use black ink because it just looks more professional. Colored inks ( blue red green or ink with sparkles in it ) distract from the natural beauty of the wood. Also to much information on the bottom looks cluttered and distractes the viewer.

Anyway this is what works for me.

I hpoe this helps. Duane

Re: Signing your work?

Piney Woods

>Woodburner pen before applying any finish.

Dremel Engraver

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Hi Kevin,

I use a Dremel engraver to sign my work. This first example is not the best of examples, becuase I had to write too much in a very small space. I think this foot was only about 1.5" in diameter. I keep the engraver set on the #2 setting out of 5 settings. I find this to be the best amount of "vibration". Any higher and you don't get enough depth from the point. It tends to just skip too much on wood anyway. I would love it if Dremel(or somebody) would come out with an engraver that was slender, or more shaped like a writing instrument. It would be a lot easier to hold and use as it's intended.

Jennifer

Re: Dremel Engraver

john Lucas

>Jennifer

I agree. I use the dremel and it gets hard to hold if you have a long session of engraving. I wonder if one of the reciprocating handpieces from Foredom would do the job. They don't vibrate until you push down on them so they might be hard to control and I don't know if you can control the depth.

I never could get the hang of woodburning for signatures and it doesn't show up on dark woods like Wenge. I tried pens but couldn't find a really fine pen that would write on dark woods. The engraver shows up on anything but doens't stand out as bold as a dark marker on light woods. I like the way it looks.

Re: Signing your work?

Michael Stadulis, in Gloucester County, NJ

>Hi Kevin,

There are cottage businesses that still make imprint stamps that make raised names as were used to show the maker of old wooden molding planes. They may work "less well" on face grain, compared to end grain, but you got me wondering if anyone has seen them used in this application.

Mike

Re: Dremel Engraver

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Hi John,

On lighter woods, I take a Q-tip with a dab of dark walnut stain and swipe it over the signature. Then I wipe it off real quick. this helps it to stand out more.

Jennifer

Re: Signing your work?

JamieDonaldson

>The best ink pens on the market are Staedtler Lumocolor- I have used them for many years on film. They are permanent and dry quickly, and are usually found at graphic supply or large office supply stores.

Re: Dremel Engraver

john Lucas

>I'll try the stain. I've found that rubbing some floor wax in makes the signature stand out as well. I tried using shoe polish. Works OK but will also fill any grain that isn't completely filled by the finish.

Re: Turbo-Carver II

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>I got one for carving, but also got a needle tip bur that cuts a pin line. Can finish first, cut the signature, date, and info, then add a bit of pigment (optional) and seal with a bit of shellac wiped off the flat surface. Done (and won't wear off)

M

Re: Turbo-Carver II

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Hi Mark,

What's the price for that little "accessory"? You know how us women love to accessorize!

Jen : )

Re: Dremel Engraver

Bruce in N.B. Canada

>Jennifer thats a great idea, I'm going to try that on the next one.

Re: Signing your work?

RonZ

>I hate to signe my work about as much as I like priceing. But if I don't do it, someone else will. =o)

I learned about using a dremel engraver from Bonnie Klein.Her handwriting that she used to sign a top could be used as a computer font. Second would have to be our own Jennifer, she has a script font that's amazing.

What I have added form my own touch especiallyt for dark woods is that I'll apply the finish, engrave my initials, date and wood if there is room and fill it in with Liberon's gold guilt and wipe of the excess. I then buff the bottom with carnauba wax. I use either silver blue or black depending on the color of the wood.

Re: Turbo-Carver II *LINK*

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>$225 from Wood Carver's Supply (link then search for TurboCarver-II) without a compressor. This unit is oil-free as opposed to the MasterCrafter that needs to be oiled, and has a water mist option for doing very hard materials like bone, stone and shells.

Remember, though, that these are only for detail work and thin piercing. They will not "hog-off" material like flex-shafts or electric units running big/heavy burrs and cutters, but run at 450,000 rpm so the wood seems to just disappear. Note to save $$ - get used bits from your dentist's office for freeeee [as long as you paid his/her bill |;-}}]!

M


WoodCarver's Supply

Cha-ching!

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Thanks Mark,

Looks like I'll be holding off on this item : )...My $19.99 Dremel engraver will sufice for now. I just plunked down for the Trend Arishield and a new woodburner with 4 pens.....I'm putting on the brakes for a while.

Jen : )