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Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

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Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

#1

Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

Tom Colligan, Peoria

>I'm still learning the correct useage of tools and lately I've been turning 5 inch diameter logs from the firewood pile. My lathe is the Jet 1442 and the lengths are about 12 to 15 inches.

1. Is it OK to rotate my 1 1/4 roughing gouge on it's side in order to make full useage of the tool's edge before going to the grinder to resharpen? Or, should the gouge always be meeting the wood at the bottom of the 'U' profile?

Also, am I doing any harm to the lathe by turning such rough firewood? That is, until a spindle begins to take shape it's a very violent operation. Will this take a toll on the bearings, etc? Tia, Tom

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

#2

Keith Tompkins

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

Keith Tompkins

>Hi Tom, yes, it's OK to rotate the tool, in fact, it's correct to rotate it toward the direction you are moving the tool.

Most turners start in the center, then work out from there in both directions to bring the piece into round.

Another method I frequently use is starting at one end, and turn the stock down to approx the finished dimention one cut at a time. With this method, I don't even bother knocking the square edges off, roll the tool over, cut in. Move the tool over for a fresh cut, and make a new cut. This method eliminates much of the initial beating you are receiving, and it's good practice for starting pommel cuts.

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

#3

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

Jack Stevenson

>Just because it is called a roughing gouge does not mean it is. I've used mine in just about every situation including outside bowl work. It does fine.

About the only caution is to not get caught up in the very ends where you could cause a dig.

I figure that the noise and violence should be a caution to reduce the amount of material being removed.

Since a lathe is really a precision instrument it will last a lot longer by respecting it's limiations.

I hope this helps,

Jack

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

#4

Richard Allen

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

Richard Allen

>Hi Tom

Yes use the whole cutting edge, a small part at a time.

Yes roughing is a violent operation. Keep the tool rest close to the wood, work close to the center of the tool rest, and keep the speed down till the cutting becomes less violent.

Many toolrests are broken in the roughing process while working away from the tool rest post.

Try to engage the bevel when using the roughing gouge. This will often require the handle of the tool to be held low.

Good Luck

Richard

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

#5

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

Walt C

>Things I have found out that you probably already know:

To reduce the violence of roughing--

Staticly balance the work. Guess where the centers are, then support it on the lathe with just the needle points of the centers. Heavy side will drop to the bottom. Raise the work about 1/8", and the new heavy side will drop. Keep doing this until the work is fairly balanced. You'll have a lot less vibration that way.

Be sure the gouge is sharp. It should be slicing off slivers, not prying off chips.

After about the third pass, you should have the chisel bevel riding on the previous cut. When you are doing it right, you will be surprised how smooth the cut is, even though the work isn't anywhere near round.

Wear face protection. There is a lot of bark and splinters flying at this point.

I love my Jet 1442.

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

#6

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

john Lucas

>Keith nailed it. On really rough our out of round work I start and one end and push the gouge in with the flute pointing a little toward that end. I'll call this about 1 oclock or maybe 1:30. Push the gouge in. The bevel will make it move to the right. you can control how deep it cuts on each pass by moving the handle left or right. Then I move 1/4" or so to the left and do this again.

This has 2 advantages. One is that is doesn't beat you, the gouge and the toolrest to death. The second is that you have much less tear out of the bark or corners of square stock. When turning from one end to the other you'll often get a long secton of bark that comes off and slaps the you know what out of your hand. I rarely have this happen when using the method just described.

This also reduces the chances of tearing out square to round transition points.

I look at the rough out gouge as 3 tools in one. The bottom U shape is the rough out portion as well as a spindle gouge. The straight portions are little skews. I rough out a spindle with the U rotating it slightly to access sharp areas. Then I'll take the long straight portion and use it like a skew held at 45 degrees to the wood to clean up all the rough marks.

On my mirror handles I use the rough out gouge to get the entire handle very close to completion. It only requirs a little touch up with the skew to fine tune the tapers and cut the beads.

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

#7

Re: Proper Useage of Roughing Gouge

Duane C.Leach

>One more thought on the use of a rouhging gouge. Most roughing gouges compared to bowl gouges have a small tang (the steel that goes into the handle). This is it's weakest part and will break easly if extended to far behond the tool rest.