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3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

Posts

3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

#1

3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

TomW in SouthJersey

>After looking at all the beautiful work posted here. I decided to find a small peice of spalted maple and give bowl turning a try. I've only had the lathe working for a few weeks and in that time have become the King of BottleStoppers.

So here is a picture of the bowl I just finished Its about 6 inches wide 2 3/4 inches tall. The top of the wall is about an 1/8th. It is sanded to 600 and polished with Hut wax.

Comments welcome. I seem to have trouble getting the bowls off the glue block. They like to sail away and pick up scratches.

Tom


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Re: 3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

#2

Re: 3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

adrien

>very nice. I'd call that Ambrosia maple rather than spalted.

Re: 3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

#3

Re: 3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

Jim R

>Here is how I get bowls off the glue block. I use 1/8" parting tool, cut in as far as I can. Sometimes it is further than others. Then I get a hand saw and saw off the remainder. Then I use a chisel to clean off the high spot and then hit the belt sander. When I use the handsaw I lock the spindle, saw a bit, turn it and saw some more. I try to leave as center a high spot as possible.

Re: 3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

#4

3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

TomW in SouthJersey

>Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try that next time. I used a hacksaw with the lathe running fairly slowly. My plan was to stop before it separated. I didn't think of locking the spindle. The first two bowls I turned had the same fate.

Tom

Re: 3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

#5

Removing bowls

Walt C

>I've had good luck with gluing the waste block with a piece of paper sack in the joint (glue on both sides of course). When its time to remove, I take it all off the lathe to the bench. I support the face plate with wood blocks so that the bowl does not touch the bench, and put a rag under the bowl, just in case.

I put a sharp chisel in the glue joint, flat side to the bowl bottom, and tap it sharply with a mallet. Rotate the bowl 60 or so degrees and do it again. Third to 5th time, the paper breaks and the bowl is free. Then clean up the bottom with the sander.

I clean up the block on the lathe with a scraper, so its ready for the next one. A small bevel on the outside edge helps to get the chisel in the joint.

Downside, I do find the joint is a bit weaker than a straight glue joint, and have had a few bowls lift off the face plate when I caught a catch. They don't fly, just sort of wander off onto the floor. Then I have to reglue and recenter. So, I use the tailstock as long as I reasonably can to keep the work fixed at both ends.

It's no fun taking dings out of a newly made bowl because it dropped off the lathe.

Re: 3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

#6

Removing Bowls

TomW in SouthJersey

>Walt - Thanks for that. I seem to remember reading about someone using paper and had forgotten about it. I'll try that on my next bowl. So far I've only turned bowls around 6 inches in diameter. I want to try something a little larger and deeper.

Re: 3rd Try Small Spalted Maple Bowl

#7

Re: Removing bowls

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Removing bowls when turning with a glue block is really quite simple. First, the glue joint must be a good one. The surface on both the glue block and the bowl must be true and flat as for any other glue joint. I use med. CA glue. but Titebond works well. If a joint fails it's almost always because not enough glue was used. Don't clamp the CA joint. Just hand pressure for a few moments after using accelerator. I part the piece off using a diamond parting tool. I make a double cut. On a bowl under 7 or 8 inches, I part down to about the size of a dime. Then just pop it off using the heel of your hand while holding it with the other. I've done this successfully many hundreds of times.

Wally