>Gents, I'm sure the answer to this is somewhere, but I just used the search feature and got page after page of things not addressing my issue.
I have a 11" dia x 3" thick pin-oak blank. It's about 2 months off the tree, and "spalted" in the center.
I'm trying to turn my first bowl, and am having a few problems I'm sure I'll conquer. But the problem that has me tied up is the end grain.
When I put gouge to endgrain this evening, I got repeat stops and catches, unless I used the gentlest touch. And that gentle touch made VERY little progress. I was using a 1" gouge, so maybe this isn't the correct tool?
>Newbe-You say you are using a 1" gouge, that seems big. Are you using a roughing gouge or a bowl gouge? Don't use a roughing gouge! This is not a safe practice.
>Frankly, I don't know the difference. It's not the one that's ground straight across then beveled, it's got a sweep to it. Looks like a big toenail.
I've got three like that, with different severities of sweep. A big one (the one inch), a smaller one with a long sweep and tight throat, and a Henry Taylor with a less severe sweep and more open throat. The latter two are about .375" or so. The 1" has a very open throat.
>Well, nothing like tackling the hardest challenge first! You don't see many "end grain" bowls because hollowing end grain, for one thing, is REALLY tough to do. Second because the pith usually creates cracks.
I did a 13" end grain box elder bowl recently, you can look for it a few weeks back and see the comments on it - you'll realize that nobody likes to do end grain, but the results can be worth it.
End grain can be done succesfully and there are a few techniques for it. One is to drill down the center and then hollow from the center out towards the rim so that you are always cutting downhill with the grain instead of against it. It is quite a bit easier but more prone to catches and there is a definite technique involved. It can also be done with hollowing tools - which is what I did. They are mostly scraping tools. Even then it is still easier to cut downhill from the center out as opposed to a normally oriented piece.
I gotta run out the door so hopefully someone will pick up where I just left off. Woke up to a flat tire this morning.
I have also been able to successfully hollow out end grain bowls by cutting into the bowl at the rim and moving directly across to the center. It requires quite a bit of effort and frequent resharpening, but it can be done. I've never heard anyone recommend this course, nor would I really, but it works.
Are you working with wet or dry wood? If wet, you'll have to seal up the pith on both sides really well with wax while it dries, and if cracks are already evident (probably) treat them with superglue before you wax.
If I understand your description so far, you have a slice off the end of a log mounted with the center of the tree at or near the middle, no ? I'm assuming so in my response, below:
At only 3" deep, you probably can shape the outside, then drill the inside to the desired depth, then make a series of cuts from the center outward toward the rim. This won't be tooooooo tough, but is not such a common beginner project. This will be harder to describe than to show you, especially since we have a vocabulary disconnect with deep fluted bowl gouge, different grinds, etc...
SO -- here's the best beginner advice I can think of. 1) seal the end grain with something to prevent further drying, which will almost certainly result in a whopper of a crack -- you could rub mineral oil into it if you don't have any wax-based end grain sealer such as Anchorseal, and/or even store it in a plastic bag for now. 2) find the AAW club closest to you, and contact them -- there will be members delighted to meet with you at your lathe or theirs, and help you finish the project.
As Mike suggests, you can turn the bowl against the grain, but there are a lot of variables here, like chucking, tool sharpening, the spalting, etc..., and if you are making a thin-wall (to avoid cracking) end grain, natural edge bowl in partially spalted PIn Oak, that really isn't a beginner sorta project without a turning mentor. So I'd say one-on-one coaching will probably be best. If you don't know how to find the AAW (www.woodturner.org), or know how to find a club nearby, give us your location, and there may be a messageboard member that can help you out. At the very least, we can help put you in contact with a relatively local turning club.
>Newbie, my advice to you is to discard the end grain piece of wood. For your first bowl, end grain is too difficult and 11 inches is too large. Find yourself a a 6 or 7 inch x 3 blank with the grain running at right angle to the lathe bed. Whatever that 1 inch tool is, it isn't the right tool for bowl work. Check the tool grind section of WC to see what a deep fluted bowl gouge looks like. That's the tool you want. You'll need a book, a video, or better yet, someone to show you how to use it.
>Newbie, I will add my little bit of advice here. Not only is end grain a tough way to learn, but it sounds like you are using a rouging gouge, which is living on the ragged edge of disaster. End grain bowls are toughies, as has already been mentioned, and I rarely turn them myself, although sometimes it is worth it. As has been mentioned, the pith is going to make it unlikely that you will be able to keep the thing whole even after you put a lot of work into it, although it can be done.
If you go to my personal website (URL below) you will see some pictorial articles on cutting logs and roughing bowls. They will give you an overview of how many of us do it with success. If you have more questions, there are lots of us here to answer them for you. Once you become proficient at turning "regular" bowls, then you can go to end grain if you find something worth the effort - sort of like this one below:
First may I say to join the forum and give us a name.
As all the others have said "end is bad"
I agree with Wally and make firewood out of it.
Learn to turn on almost any wood and not end grain. Join a club or get help from an experienced turner. Almost all of us are happy to help with guidance. A simple thing like using a roughing gouge on what you are doing can lead to serious pain or damage to you. Proper tool use and the correct tool for what you are doing can lead to a very pleasurable experience.
>Firstly..........get tuition on how to use the tools!
Endgrain in normal turning requires extremely sharp gouges and the bevel rubbing.If you dont have the above two covered you'll end up saying no end grain or you will spend a long time locally sanding by hand on the tear out areas.
For hollowing a vessel that has the grain running parallel to the lathe bed I use my 1/2" Hamlet spindle gouge with a lady finger nail grind. Yes you read right...spindle gouge. Use it horisontal over the tool rest set up so that the bottom of the inside of the flute is exactly on center line of the work. Start off by pushing it into the centre point where it will start drilling a hole. Remove the waste either inwards towards the hole ( my preference ) or outwards from the centre towards the rim. Important!!! keep the gouge hourisontal slightly turned off its back, the flute about 22.5 deg off horisontal BUT on centre line!!!! You may have to vary the amount of twist from on its back that you use slightly depending on your sharpening.
This has worked for me for maby years....goblets vases etc hollowing out on endgrain.
>Perhaps this needs clarification: Quote from my previous response:". Important!!! keep the gouge hourisontal slightly turned off its back, the flute about 22.5 deg off horisontal BUT on centre line!!!! "
Keep the gouge horisontal, i.e. parallel to the lathe bed top. The flute facing perfectly to the top needs to be turned about 22.5 deg to your left ( inboard turning ) but you may have to increase this angle depending on your lady finger nail shape.
