finishing box elder ?

Re: finishing box elder ?

Donna Banfield

>Hi Ken

Any oil finish that penetrates into the wood will enhance the natural beauty, which will look better than a finish that sits on the surface.

My personal preference is Bush Oil. I understand that it's similar to Watco danish oil, i.e., the manufacturer used to work for Watco. I was in the Woodcraft store the day that the rep was demonstrating it, and purchased a can. Used it on a red maple bowl, and then compared the finish to another bowl from the same log, only with a Salad Bowl finish. The difference was striking.

I use the oil finish now on any piece that has nice grain. The extra cost is worth the finished product.

Re: finishing box elder ?

Dale Cook

>I have come across alot of boxelder burl in the last month or so. I've just finished one and have four more drying with the alcohol method. The one I have done is with high gloss lacquer and also put a bloodwood rim and foot on it.The lacquer is put on 3 light coats a day for four or five days then let cure for at couple of weeks,then sanded and buffed out. It really shows of the burl figure nicely.I just ordered another digital camera,lost one in the provo river on a trip this summer,otherwise I'd post a picture.

Re: finishing box elder ?

Don Evans, Raleigh, NC

>I've always used Mark VI from Packard Woodworks on box elder. I like the finish plus I like the amber tint it give it due to the cream of the wood.

Usually 3 coats 600 grit sanding after each coat, lightly.

Then microcrystaline wax, the high gloss high build by Arborwax. No fingerprints.

Don

Re: finishing box elder ? (long)

Brad Vietje

>I use Urethane Oil from Craft Supplies -- probably the same stuff as Packard's Mark VI. It has a yellowish tint which highlights the burl figure, and contrasts nicely with any red streaking you are lucky enough to have.

You can control the sheen very well with this finish. I use it the way Peter Bloch, the lampshade guy does -- 20% Mineral Spirits, 80% Urethane oil. Multiple "coats" with light scuffing with 3M or Scotchbright pad between coats. It penetrates very well, and will pass right through a 1/2" thick dry bowl, so its really more of a soak than a coat. I apply one heavy coat, adding more as the wood looks "thirsty" over about 10 minutes, then wipe off excess with paper towels. Either dunk the gooey paper towels in a bucket of water or burn them in the woodstove; they may be a fire hazzard. Dry for a day or two, then I add a little more, especially where the wood looks dull and thirsty, then wipe off -- this time it will begin to set up a lot faster, as the cured oil on the bowl catalyses the polymerization of each subsequent addition of oil.

If you want a satin finish, just wipe it down and let it cure 2 days -- buff with super fine (gray) 3M pad, and buff with cotton or paper towel. For a more glossy shine, add more oil each day, with a light scuffing between each coat. Can be buffed with tripoli or white diamond and waxed, if desired. Food safe after about 3 weeks -- after all the thinner has evaporated.

With Boxelder Burl, I also like to turn it soaking wet, then wet sand with the Urethane Oil to 320 or so. Wipe off with towel, and apply the finishing oil liberally, soak, then wipe, as before. Let it dry, and all the wrinkly figure that develops will already have a good supportive finish in it. Buff with Scotchbright pads to remove any raised grain, and apply a little more finish oil. Buff and you're done. This way, you get the nice texture of the dried burl without sanding it all off after the piece has dried. A solid chunk of Boxelder burl is very stable so far as cracking goes -- you can take it right inside and watch it shrivel up as it dries. If there is any straight grain (non-burl) wood, that's where it will crack if dried too quickly.

Safe Spinning,

Brad Vietje

Thetford, VT