silicon sandpaper - blue bowls

Re: silicon sandpaper - blue bowls

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Except for 400 and higher, I suggest that you use aluminum oxide paper or cloth. perhaps you could make a trade with your dealer.I never wet or oil sand with Sil. carbide paper. Mostly because of what you're experiencing.

Wally

Re: silicon sandpaper - blue bowls

Carole in VA

>I learned that lesson today also. Was turning a white oak pen and used that stuff...it made a mess of it. I scraped it down a little but of course some of the blue/black was still in those big open oak pores. Rather than trash the pen I decided to "enhance" the steaks so I put walnut grain filler on it. It actually turned out pretty nice!

Thanks Wally. If I...

Shawn - in ID

>use the silicon carbide for dry sanding only, will I still have 'blue problems' when I apply finish? On three bowls I started going wet/oil at 220 or lower - thus the problems: am I alright to wet/oil sand with 400 and 600 silicon carbide?

Thanks Carole, that makes...

Shawn - in ID

>me feel a little better. Glad yours turned out well, can you post a picture?

Re: silicon sandpaper - blue bowls

Bill Kram

>Yup, have had the same experience with SiC.

So what do you folks use for wet sanding? Water, oil or wax? And what kind of paper/cloth? When I have tried Al Oxide paper the grains come loose when wet with water or oil. What am I missing?

Until this purchase I've...

Shawn - in ID

>used Norton 3X paper. I was buying tool bits from Enco and thought I'd get more sandpaper at the same time since I'm nearly out and they had good prices...clearly I made a bad choice in type. LOML and I just got back from Home Depot with some new Norton 3X - Love the stuff: doesn't clog or dislodge and stays sharp forever (wet or dry). Maybe someone else can offer a better price source for Norton 3X?

Shawn, do you mind ?

Fred in NC

>Where was the sandpaper made? I bought some terrible paper last year that fits your description. The grit comes off the backing as soon as it sees the wood. It was a house brand that I won't mention for now.

Re: Shawn, do you mind ?

Shawn - in ID

>The box the paper comes in (all grits) reads that it was made in China on the side. There is a label on the back of the paper with the word "Sharpness" and a silhouette of a rhino standing on a cartoon of the globe.

Re: Shawn, do you mind ?

Fred in NC

>That is bad news. The bad paper I got (from HF) is made in India. Now I have to watch out for other sources. Thanks for the info.

Wet or Dry..

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>I wouldn't use water or oil with wet or dry sp. even with higher numbered grits on light colored wood. You could get away with it on darker colored wood. Years ago I made a lot of gunstocks using walnut. I sanded the oil in using 600 grit. I did this with many coats until the pores were filled. Made a great finish.

Wally

Wally - I'm Confused

Ric Taylor

>What sandpaper or cloth do you recommend for 400 and higher?

Re: silicon sandpaper - blue bowls

Russ Fairfield

>Heat is the enemy of sandpaper, no matter what type or size its grit may be. When the paper gets hot enough to melt the adhesive that holds the grit particles on the paper, it will leave a streak of glue on the wood. We see this with wet/dry paper because the waterproof adhesive is black. Coarse grits (280 and less) can be a greater problem than the fine grits (320 and greater) because more heat can be generated faster by the larger grit particles.

If you are having stains, it is because the paper is getting hot enough to soften the black adhesive to where it can come off onto the wood. How hot is "hot" will depend on the manufacturer. Norton and 3M wet/dry paper will tolerate more heat than others. It is also more expensive than the other brands.

There is always the chance that the adhesive on a cheap sandpaper may not be waterPROOF or if may be soluble in the thinners of an oil finish.

Three (3) things to do when using wet/dry sandpaper ---

Don't buy cheap sandpaper. Quality costs money.

When using it dry, run the lathe at a slow enough speed that the paper doesn't get hot. If it is too hot to hold with your fingers through a single layer of paper, it is too hot. Slow down. And keep the paper moving; don't hold in one spot on the wood.

When using it wet with water or oil, keep it wet. Letting it dry is asking for heat. Wax will have a greater tolerance than either water ot oil.

You can use the aluminum-oxide for wet sanding with water. The only problem is that the adhesive holding the grit on the paper is not waterproof and all of the grit will come off. However, the slurry of water and grit is an excellent sanding medium. The wood will have to be cleaned to remove all of the slurry before going on to a finer grit. Since water is being used, taking the wood to the sink for a good flushing is a good way to do this.

The advantage with the black (or grey) Silicon-Carbide paper is that the adhesive is waterproof, and it can be used again with a lubricant. The disadvantage is that the adhesive is black, and it can stain the wood if it gets hot enough to come off.

Re: Wally - I'm Confused

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Ric, the only sandpaper that's generally available in grits 400 and above is Sil. Carbide wet/dry. I recommend that you use it dry. I use 400, 600 and 1500. In heavier grits I recommend aluminum oxide paper or cloth. I use Norton no-fil, which is made in Canada, but is available in this country. There are some very good sandpapers made in Europe and is distributed by people like Klingspor and others.

Wally

Many thanks!

Ric Taylor

>

Wow, thanks Russ!!!

Shawn - in ID

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