Answers, some may even by right.
Dave Smith, Longview, WA
>Hi Wayne,
The picture was not very good and the best plates were in the bags. I could use a glue block for starting the plates but I am lazy. I used a 2 3/8" clock insert bit and drill a hole in the center of what will be the top of the plate. The hole only needs to be about an 1/8" deep for my #2 Oneway stronghold jaws to grip. The jaws will fit into this opening if all the saw dust and other gunk is cleaned out between the jaws.
I have turned about 20 so far and only screwed up 3. Very figured wood like bigleaf maple will chip out on the trailing edge of the corners very easily. Cut a recess for an expansion grip. I try to have the inside of the foot 2 1/2" for my chuck. Taper the outside of the foot up to the same depth as the recess.
Move out to the corners and start shaping the corners working from the inside out. I find it easiest to look straight down to see the profile taking shape. Light cuts are what works best for me. I only remove enough material toward the middle to allow me to shape the curve. Once I have solid wood all the way around I clean up the ears using a shear cut with a 5/8 fingernail gouge. I try to imagine a cure that I draw the gouge through concentrating on keep the pressure down on the tool rest. Once I clean up the ears I finish the bottom curve to the base of the foot.
Finish sanding the bottom with the lathe turning. I had to do a lot of sanding on the first half dozen bowls until figured out how to shear scrape the ears.
Reveres the blank. Start from the out side and slowly shape the top to conform to the bottom curve. Once there is a solid ring of wood finish the ears including sanding. As before remove just enough material on the inside to allow shaping and finishing the ears. I found a heavy scraper works very well making finish cuts on the tops of the plate, especially the ears. Finish shaping the top being careful not to expose the chuck jaws.
Remove the plate and finish sand with the grain. I applied Rockler gel polyurethane and Buffed on the Beal wheels.
I use scraps from about 3/4 to 1 inch thick. I shoot for about 1/8" thick. I also found that I prefer less pronounced up turned corners. I like something I call flat curves but I can't explain it. I thought about writing up and article with pictures but I need a secretary for any more paper work.
Dave Smith
Got the flat work blues in Longview, WA.
