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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

So here is the problem

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So here is the problem

#1

So here is the problem

Barry on Salt Spring

>Just got my scorpion hollower from Lee Valley. This is way too much fun!! First attempt is very dry piece of Myrtle wood (from Oregon I think?) Maybe should have tried something green? Any way this baby is like turning concrete. Hard to keep the cutter sharp. Using 120 grit stone. turn,turn and back to the grinder etc.etc.etc. I have never used a hone on any gouges, would this help and if so what type? Perhaps that noted hollow turner who resides with Mrs Schwing in MD would have a thought.... or three or four?

Re: So here is the problem

#2

I have the "Scorpion"

Dominic Greco in Richboro PA

>Barry,

You wrote:

"First attempt is very dry piece of Myrtle wood (from Oregon I think?) Maybe should have tried something green? ....Hard to keep the cutter sharp. Using 120 grit stone. turn,turn and back to the grinder...."

I have the Scorpion and really enjoy using it. So far I've tried my hand at hollowing both wet and dry woods. As you guessed, wet is MUCH easier. But then again, it also depends on the wood. I think that myrtle is up there with Osage for hardness (someone correct me if I'm wrong here).

I believe that Mark Kauder uses the Scorpion to hollow out his segmented hollow forms. So there is an example of someone using the tool on dry wood in the way you intended. And when I first purchased it, Wally Dickerman gave me some great tips on using the Scorpion. Perhaps Mark or Wally will jump in here and tell us their thoughts.

As for honing versus sharpening and such; I tend to sharpen both ends of all the cutters on the grinder before a turning session. When one dulls up, I pop it out, and flip the cutter end for end. When that dulls, I replace it with a fresh one. When sharpening at the grinder, I followed the directions that came with the tool for setting the proper angle. I always quench the tool while sharpening to hold the tempering. I have yet to "hone" one of the cutters. When dull, I just touch it up on the grinder. A light touch will do it for you.

Recently, I picked up a hand powered grinder for $5.00 at a yard sale. And you know what? I use that heck out of that thing! I have never burnt a tool edge while using it and am quite satisfied with the edge I can get on small items like the cutters. You might want to keep you eye out for one of them.

Another option is to buy M2 Tool Steel boring bar cutters for your Scorpion. I believe that Packard Woodworks sells them for the Stewart Hollowing System. And since the Scorpion and Stewart are a lot alike, you can most likely use these cutters. M2 Tool Steel will hold an edge about 3 times longer than HSS.

Heck, it you're really industrious you can probably order M2 Tool Steel bars from ENCO and make your own cutters

Good luck.

See ya around,

My ugly mug

Dominic

Re: So here is the problem

#3

Re: So here is the problem

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Barry, I've turned lots of myrtlewood and I've found that it's a relatively soft, easy to work wood even when dry. Possibly you have an unusual piece of wood. I use a Stewart tool and the Scorpion is a copy of that. I suggest that you find some 3/16-inch cutter stock that has 5 or 10% cobalt. It will hold an edge longer than HSS. I've found it at Enco

I Notice that list Salt Spring as your home. I used to do a lot of boating in the Gulf Islands and have moored at Ganges on Salt Spring Is. many times.

Wally

Re: So here is the problem

#4

Re: So here is the problem

Barry on Salt Spring

>Wally and Dominic

Thank you both so much for replying to my post. As usual you are both so informative and helpful. Woodcentral is the greatest place in the world for novice turners!! And Wally I am glad you were able to spend some time in my part of the world. I am fortunate indeed to call Salt Spring Home.

Regards Barry on Salt Spring