Sanding Natural Edge

Re: Sanding Natural Edge

Russ Fairfield

>I use a 2" sanding disc in a power drill for sanding the natural edge bowls with the lathe OFF and the spindle locked. I keep the disc flat on the surface so I can run it out over the edge without rounding it over, and sanding slowly so I will always have control of it. The 2" disc is easier to control than the 3", especially in the coarser grits.

Some folks will advocate running the lathe while holding the sanding disc at an angle to keep it from catching on the rotating wood. I have never been able to do this.

Re: Sanding Natural Edge

Tony Reynolds

>Hi All,

I use a piece of high density foam like is used to insulate copper water pipe. Wrap the sandpaper around the foam and into the split. It holds very well. Then sand at an angle. There's enough flex to move or give if needed, but stiff enough to maintain contact with the wood.

Tony

added note

Tony Reynolds

>I have the insulation tube about 18" long or so and run a thin dowel part way down inside. This allows you to adjust the amount of pressure and keep your hands well clear of the rotating wings or breaks in the surface. Hope this makes sense. Easier to do than explain.

Tony

Re: Sanding Natural Edge

John Lucas

>I do like Russ, sand with lathe off. It't just to easy to round over the edge or thin the edge. I have a weighted strap that fits over the chuck. This holds the wood fairly steady so I can use the drill but I can easily rotate it to sand the next area.

Re: Sanding Natural Edge

Brad Vietje

>I do both -- depends on how dramatic the natural edge is. I usually get good results power sanding with the lathe running, but the angle of the pad to the spinning wood and the edge is pretty critical to avid rounding the edges.

Most of my natural edge bowls and vases are turned green, so I wet sand by hand with the lathe running. Too many details to write here, but I'm very careful about how the abrasive strip (mine are cloth backed) is positioned to meet the oncoming natural edge. In general, I follow the curve of the bowl at an angle, from foot to edge, twisting the cloth a little so the oncoming wood can't strike the edge of the abrasive -- sort of a soft landing. I also pay close attention to the writing on the back of the paper/cloth -- if it's getting blurry, it's being vibrated by the wavy edge, and I'm in danger of round over. I hold it (move it) so it just barely touches the spinning edge, and with just enough tension that the text doesn't blurr .. make sense ?

Safe Spinning,

Brad Vietje

Thetford, VT

Re: Sanding Natural Edge

Leo Van Der Loo

>I do also, depending on the shape etc, power sand at least the lower outside and central inside with the drill and power on, power sand the wings, tool marks, spots etc. with the power off, and yes start power sanding the easy ones first and work your way up as you gain experience, have fun and take care.

Leo V

Sounds like a great idea!

Bud

>Insulating foam tubes sound like a great idea- can picture that you can adjust the stiffness of this sanding rig by inserting the dowl more or less in the tube. Don't know why I haven't seen more about that tip- will try it soon

Thanks

Bud

Re: Sanding Natural Edge *LINK*

Paul Porter in Phoenix, AZ

>I use the air powered random orbit sander from Souix to sand natural edge bowls, with the power off. It works great if you have a big enough compressor to push it.


My Website

Re: Sanding Natural Edge

Bill Grumbine, Kutztown PA

>Another option is to sand with the bowl off the lathe, and the sanding disk mounted in a drill press. I do that from time to time since the spindle lock on my lathe is spring loaded, and the spindle turns easily when the lathe is off. Of course, when you get into extreme natural edges, it is time to break out the random orbit sander, like I did on this one:

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Bill