Cold weather Finishing

Re: Cold weather Finishing

John Lucas

>Sean

In my Tennessee cold and wet basement I can't spray during the winter. I switch to rubbing several layers of deft on by hand. Then sanding lightly to level followed by another layer and then buffing with the Beal.

I was reading Russ's article on finishing the other day and may give that a try as soon as I get the chance. It's not very different from what I do but I am always looking for a better finish.

Re: Cold weather Finishing

Sean Troy

>I would normaly do the same, but I have a bowl 20" dia. that has as much void as wood and is 1/8" thick. The less I have to handle it, the better. It was an exercise in pushing the limits for myself. My next bowl like this will be turned to 1/4". It should be up to 60+ today so I may try spraying if it gets there. Thanks, Sean

Re: Cold weather Finishing *LINK*

Paul Porter in Phoenix, AZ

>Hey Sean,

Try warming your spray can/pot in a bowl of warm water. It works with the spray cans I use.


My Website

Re: Cold weather Finishing

Russ Fairfield

>Read the labels on the cans. Most finishes say not to use at temperatures below 65 degrees, and some will say 70.

You have 2 choices in cold temperatures. either finish in a warm room (65 degrees) or wait until Spring. If you apply a finish outside in a cold temperature, you will have to take them back inside as soon after application as possible. The problem is that the solvents will evaporate very slowly at temperatures below 65 and not at all below about 50 degrees.

Same for the crosslinking that takes place with an oil or varnish finish. The reaction starts to slow at about 65 degrees, and stops at about 50. Left in the cold, the finish will stay "tacky" for weeks, if it cures at all.

The evaporation is even slower if the low temperatures are accompanied by a high relative humidity, such as the 35 degrees and raining that are common at this time of the year. .

There will always be some initial evaporation and curing if both the bowl and the finish are at room temperature, however, everything will stop as soon an their temperature drops in the cold atmosphere. You will have to take it inside again. If the smell of curing finishes in the house is not an option, you will have to wait until Spring.

If you have to leave finishes in the cold, there are a couple options. One would be Deft as a brush-on finish as John describes. The thinners in lacquer are more volatile and they will continue to evaporate (slowly) at lower temperatures. Since there is no chemical reaction within the finish, your only concern will be slower evaporation and the possibility of blushing.

The other option is a finish that doesn't have to evaporate or have a chemical reaction - Mineral Oil, Sunflower Oil, salad oils, beeswax, and the like.

Otherwise, you will have to wait until Spring. Sorry.

Re: Cold weather Finishing

Sean Troy

>I have everything I'll be using inside at room temp. I guess I can spray and bring right back inside until the next coat and then repeat the process. That is unless my loving wife says get that smelly thing out of the house. thanks for all the help. Safe turning, Sean

Re: Cold weather Finishing

Joel Hunnicutt

>Sean, I spray lacquer and had one heck of a time last winter. I just bought one of those oil filled radiators and am going to try and maintain 65 deg in my finishing room. I know that once I turn on the fan, all the heat will leave, but if I can keep the room and material warm, hopefully it will work out OK

Re: Cold weather Finishing

SamSimpson

>Hi Y'all,

Sean, if you follow all of Russ' tips and advice, you might be able to sail a little closer to the wind by playing a few tricks with the ambient temperatures.

On small pieces such as turnings, even 20" ones, it is often possible to isolate them into a smaller air mass that is more easily controlled. Putting a small tent of plastic around them and warming the air mass within the tent by use of an incandescent light bulb. Infra red will warm larger spaces and radiators will warm larger still. (per Joel)

By keeping your project and finishing products in a warm place, you can make the actual finish application in cold temperatures. Then transfer the project to a warm place for drying and curing.

You are not looking for total enclosure. Some air exchange is required to prevent a build up of fumes. What you are looking for is more of a four sided draft preventer. I have had success with a four sided floor to ceiling tent five feet on the sides, something big enough to step into. One infrared light from above and one 100watt bulb on the floor. I cut a few vent slots in the top and bottom that can be taped shut or left open as required.

Try a few experiments on flat panels first. Signs of blistering will indicate too rapid drying and heat source too close. Signs of crazing will indicate too cold. You might want to acquire one of the very inexpensive wall thermometers, some even have humidity readings.

Regards Sam Simpson

Re: Cold weather Finishing

Sean Troy

>great idea, Thank you, Sean