sanding discs

Re: sanding discs

jared

>I finally bit the bullet and invested the money to buy the large sheets of velcro backed sandpaper from INdustrial Abrasives last spring. It is a lot cheaper in the long run and the paper seems to hold up real well for me. I just use an old scissors to cut out the disks, a little larger than the wave back up pads and I dont seem to have any trouble with the edges digging in while sanding. When the scissors gets dull I just sharpen them with a file. There was a link posted here not too many days ago for the industrial abrasives site. good luck Jared

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Re: sanding discs

Mike Schwing from Md.

>I use the "Wave" discs both in 2 and 3 inch. I know they can be made cheaper but I don't mind, in the long run I waste more mone on other things. I bag them up for individual sessions - I label them and put a sheet of each grit in a baggie and pull out a baggie when sanding a new workpiece. I throw them out after each work is sanded.

A lot of work to do the sorting but it is really nice to have a bag full of 100 baggies full of pre sorted sanding sheets.

Re: sanding discs

Bruce, N.B. Canada

>Tony do a search on Royce Sales located in southern Ontario, they have great sandpaper as well as good pricing. I'm certainly pleased with it and I use both two and three inch discs and I see in the last catalogue they now have one inch discs and arbors, my catalogue is down in the wookshop or I would give you address.

Happy Sanding, Bruce in N.B. Canada

Not connected with Royce Sales, just a happy customer.

Save the scissors

Bob Hackett

>I also use the sheets of velcro(Rhynogrip)backed paper from Industrial Abrasives.I cut the discs alittle differently though.

I`ve taken 2 appropriately sized (ID of saw=1/4" bigger than the pad)worn out hole saws.I ground the teeth off on the lathe lathe using the arbor as a mandrel(a long bolt and nut will work too).I then use the same angle grinder to put an approx 45 deg bevel on the saw where the teeth used to be.

I used a long bolt and nut as a handle and and use the cutter with the sheet of abrasive over a large endgrain block of softwood.I just hit the top ot the handle with a mallet and the work progresses surprisingly fast.You can eject the cut discs by pushing them out with a dowel thru the holes in the top of the cutter.I got both the old holesaws and the wood block from a local contractor.

I plan to turn a wood handle that spins on the bolt for the next modification as the bare bolt is less than comfortable for long use.The only problem is that then I can`t use the bolt/handle to spin it in the lathe for sharpening. This cutter also works on scotchbrite too.

I ran thru alot of garage sale scissors before I went to plan B.

Mainely,Bob

Re: sanding discs

Mark Kauder

>Mike,

You really should consider the stuff from Industrial Abrasives (the website is down at the moment). Like I have said in previous posts, you can get 350 2" disks for the price of 50 of the wavey disks, and frankly, I think it is much better paper - does not wear out as quickly or load as easily. I used to use the gold wavey disks, and still have a few lying around, but I only use them now to use them up, and only on something that I know will not require much sanding. They just do not last very long.

I posted an article on making the disks over in the WC Articles section.

Mark

Re: sanding discs

Richard Allen

>I like Royce sales as well. The also go by:

www.sandpaper.ca

The sandpaper is good and the price is less than the others I have found. Service is great. Shipping is by post office and is a little pricey. That price can be "deflected" by ordering quanity (cost nearly the same to ship 30 discs as it does to ship 500 discs). With the exchange rate the 2" discs are $0.14 each plus shipping.

Re: sanding discs

Richard Allen

>Hi Mike

I use a fishing tackel box to hold sandpaper. One grit per compartment. Makes it easy to advance through the grits. Looks like the one pictured. Holds 10 different grits. I open the box on the bed of the lathe with the lid leaning against the live center. Just move from compartment to compartment through the grits. The box closes securely and I can stack my 3" box with my 2" box and my box of overstock and sanding mandrils. The base of the box fits in the lid of the box below.

No Thanks!

Jay Kilpatrick in TX

>Bob,

Unfortunately, I don't have any hole saws used or new for this purpose. I don't know any local contractors either, nor do I need any work done that would put me in contact with one. Am I going to contact one and ask for their old ones? Nope. Am I going to trade a bowl for a few used up hole saws? (taking the time to contact people and have them think, "what kind of idiot is this?) Nope. Can I stop by the dollar store and pick up a three pack of cheapo scissors just begging for the kind of punishment they'll take from cutting sandpaper and be sharpened frequently with a file or on a grinder? You bet'chor sweet arse I will. Just my perspective...to be read with a humorous tone in mind.

Cheers!

Re: No Thanks!

Bob Hackett

>Message received and understood.

The contractor thing was just the thrifty(cheap)Yankee in me.The local contractor happens to be my daughter`s boyfriend and anything that allows me to put an armlock on him(by way of my daughter)I`m all for.It` my way of letting him know I`m thinking about him.;^)

The one thing the cutter can`t do is make wavy discs.Scissors have me beat in that repect.

I guess it all comes down to whatever floats your boat,how and where you sail is your own concern.Just posting my approach in the hopes that someone else may also find it useful.You can put down the scissors now and I can stop sweating.;^)

Mainely,Bob-Hoping you don`t run or answer the phone with those things in your hand.

Hijack,sort of

Bob Hackett

>While we`re talking about power sanding,has anyone found a driver pad that they`re REALLY satisfied with?I have yet to find one that has Velcro that will hold securely for more than 90 days.

Might just be caused by a loose nut behind the controls but I have yet to find something that will hold up.

Mainely,Bob

Cut 'em Square...

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>You don't have to cut the discs round. Using a box cutter and a straight edge, cut squares a tad oversize, then snip the corners off with scissors. Sands like wave discs.

Wally

Try this for longer Velcro life......

Russ Fairfield

>Something that nobody ever thinks of is that the Velcro grips in both directions. When the pad is worn out from spinning in one direction, reverse the drill motor, and give it a new life.

Slower sanding speeds also extend the life of the Velcro because there will be less heat and slippage.

The best way to make the Velcro last a long time is to use a dedicated mandrel for each grit. Without the constant removal of the discs to change grits, they will last longer. Since doing this, my mandrels can be used until the foam comes apart from flexing, about a year if all goes well.

You may be using the mandrels more than I, but I doubt it.

Re: Hijack,sort of

Richard Allen

>Hi Bob

I used to melt the velcro all the time. My current 2" pad is now over 2 years old. It gets used on most every face turning (not on spindles) I do. I know that my power sanding process has changed over the years. The biggest change has been a new lathe. That lets me spin the workpiece at a slower speed when power sanding. (Yea I could do that before but I had to move a belt which I rarely did). I also don't mind starting at coarse grits if I see any tool marks. I used to have deeper tool marks and start at finner grits. I now had 40 grit discs if I need them and I regularly start at 60 or 80 grit. Only takes a few seconds to get a monochrome surface with those coarse grits. Moving on through the gits from that known scratch pattern is quicker for me and more predictable. Mind you this approach isn't any cheaper, as the cost of the coarse grits more than make up for the extended life of the pad.

Now Wally...

Bob Hackett

>You`re takin` all the fun out of this!

Bob Rosand used to stack layers of sandpaper up between 2 wood discs held between centers and use a skew to trim to the size of the disc.Hard to get any faster than that,24+ discs in just afew seconds.

Wally,put those scissors down.It was Rosand`s idea,not mine.

Mainely,Bob-Who`s headed for the door!

Re: No Thanks!

John Lucas

>Bob

The way I would do it to buy a metal lathe and turn the metal rings complete with handle. Then buy a forge and heat treat the metal. Then buy a white cone shaped stone that fits in the drill press and use that to sharpen the thing. Of course you probably need a rotary table and milling machine to do this better.

That way I could save maybe 10 to 20 dollars a year on sanding discs. Never pass up a chance to buy a new tool. :)

Re: No Thanks!

Tony Reynolds

>I like the way you think John!! ;)

Tony

Glad to see...

Bob Hackett

>That at least one other person took my post the way I meant it.

Some people will go WAY out of thier way and beyond all reason in order to find a way to solve a non-problem.Unfortunately,I am one of those people.

For all of you who may have been thinking about going thru all that stuff I posted,DON`T.

Do yourself a favor and just buy the discs from Industrial Abrasives,like I really should have done before I fell over the edge and lost my sanity.The mind(and scissors)you save may be your own.

Hello,my name is...

Mainely,Bob-and I just can`t stop making tools.

Somehow I think I may be in the wrong place when it comes to getting either help or sympathy.:^)

Re: No Thanks!

Fog Tanner

>I would prefer to have a CNC machining center. You would first cut the rings from billet, a CNC mill is great at doing this, have them cryogynicaly hardened, and the OD ground. A grinding wheel in the chuck would touch up the edge. After you made a set of round cutters, you could also make a set with wavy edges. Again the CNC mill could grind the edge on the wavy cutter very easily. I would also make a set of 2 1/2" discs for those in between areas.

Next step is a CNC punch press for the final stamping. Once that was done, you would need to invest in a laminating press for making your own sandpaper. And of course a ceramic kiln to make your own friable material. Too expensive to manufactur on a commercial basis, but since you already have the setup - why not.

And lastly, find a wealthy sugarmama or sugarsignificantother to pay for the above. Preferrably one that likes woodturning, but doesn't know good from bad - so everything that comes off the lathe is good. And next week, how to find a sugarsignificantother to fund building your own lathe - gotta have more tools....

Re: Now Wally...

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Hey Bob....sounds like a winner!! I'll have to try that. But then I would have those little corners sticking out...

Wally

Now I`m excited!!

Bob Hackett

>Just one question,where does one buy billet sandpaper?

Mainely,Bob-Who just knew this would bite him in the a##.

Whimpy Velcro

Bob Hackett

>The Velcro seems to be the problem on the three brands of pads I`ve used.It just stops holding new discs in either direction.

I`m looking for the industrial velcro like 3M uses(looks like tiny plastic mushrooms instead of hooks)but can`t seem to find a source.The 3M pad`s foam is too thin and that makes them too ridgid to work properly for bowl work.With a light touch they work pretty well on platters though.

Mainely,Bob

Good news and bad

Bob Hackett

>The good news is that all those corners stay between centers like a captive ring.

The bad news is that the time you gain by using this process is now spent regrinding and honing the skew chisel.:^(

Like Rosanne Rosanadana says,"It`s always something".

Mainely,Bob

Piece of pipe, whack, whack,whack

Leo Van Der Loo

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