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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

Drying and distortion

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Drying and distortion

#1

Drying and distortion

Fred in NC

>This might be the dumb question of the century...

I understand that drying with alcohol saves time and prevents a lot of cracking, but in some cases there is some distortion, ie. the rough turned blank takes more or less of an oval shape.

Now, here comes the dumb part . . .

Since the rough turned bowls will dry so much faster, can we prevent the distortion also? A hole in a thick piece of plywood to fit the rim?

I know this would not be practical if we had to wait several months for the drying process, especially if you had 50 bowls on the racks, taking a lot of space and lots of plywood. But for a few bowls at a time it might become more practical.

Now, this is for all you highly skilled turners who can turn anything out of wood. Please turn a wood dunce cap and send it to me!

Re: Drying and distortion

#2

Re: Drying and distortion

Andrew Hilton

>Instead of trying to wrap a disk around the outside of a bowl form, you can simply fashion a sliding stick that will lengthen to fit the inside of the form. Just be careful to not put too much pressure on thinner forms.

Wood wants to move as it dries and we can do a little to keep it from that but you can also set up too much stress and cause cracking that way too.

Re: Drying and distortion

#3

Re: Drying and distortion

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Fred, I like the way you're thinking, but I'm going with a different approach. Whats the big deal with warping and distortion? All it results in is making the roughs a bit larger, and it only takes a few minutes to turn the wobble out of the form when it is finished turned. Allowing the wood to do what it wants will probably result in a more stable bowl throughout its lifespan, as something forced to dry under stresses or incorrectly can change dramatically when humidity levels vary. I have a table who's legs were dry and straight when I built it - no more. I'm guessing that wood wasn't dried properly.

Once you get your bowl roughs stash up in numbers, you might just forget about this line of thinking, as something is almost always ready for finishing. Turn 4 or 5 roughs each month and a year from now you'll have 4 or 5 ready every month.

Between the half way done dry projects and the roughs that are now ready to turn, half of the time I don't know where to start!

BUT, can't hurt to try your idea, and you never know.

Re: Drying and distortion

#4

Wood will move (long-winded response)

Dominic Greco in Richboro, PA

>Fred,

No matter what you do, the wood will move. Changes in the humidity, or temperature will cause it to move. Since we're working with wet wood, it will distort as it drys.

The old air drying regimen of allowing bowl to sit for months (or years) at a time has it roots in that you give the wood time to get slowly rid of the excess moisture. We make the roughed out form thick so that you can accommodate the fact that the wood has indeed moved. But you left yourself enough excess (hopefully!) to compensate for that.

IMHO, trying to stop the movement of wood is a recipe for disaster. The stress generated by the wood moving has to go somewhere. Usually this will result in a crack. That is why woodworker's in the beginning of recorded history invented frame and panel construction. The solid wood panel is allowed to move with the seasonal changes in temperature.

I see something like this all the time as an mechanical engineer. A piece of equipment has a component that breaks under stress. So someone suggests making that component stronger. After you do that, the support structure around the component fails. Like I said, the stress had to go somewhere.

However, I know of several turners who insert 1/4" plywood disks in the base of their bowls. This limits the movement of the wood at the base. This technique works pretty well. But it doesn't stop it at the rim of the bowl. We minimize the movement by using dried wood, or aligning the grain (as in segmented work) so that the wood moves in the same direction.

Mike Schwing has a point too. Why limit it?If you're into turning green wood bowls, you know that they'll warp. That's part of their beauty. They get this "flower like" look that is very appealing.

Hope I haven't gotten too far afield on this one and that you've gotten my point.

See ya around,

Dominic

Re: Drying and distortion

#5

Richard Allen

Re: Drying and distortion *LINK*

Richard Allen

>You can stack your drying bowls such that there is presure against the endgrain.

I reference the writeup in the link.


Bowl mill drying procedure