Good Hope Hardwoods - Walnut Slabs & Specialty Hardwood Lumber

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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

Glue Blocks....

Posts

Glue Blocks....

#1

Glue Blocks....

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Because I use glue blocks with most of my work, I've been asked to post some info how to use them.

When using a waste block there are several "musts" to be observed. The surfaces of both the blank and the waste block must be true and flat, as in any other glue joint. If there is a joint failure it's almost always because there wasn't enough glue used. You aren't trying to make an invisible joint. I use medium CA glue and I apply a heavy coat to each surface. I then hit the blank with one shot of accelerator and immediately apply the waste block to the blank. No clamp, just firm hand pressure for a moment. Other glues can be used, such as yellow glue, but that takes some clamping time.

I use a screw chuck, but a faceplate works. I use alder because it never warps, so it's always true and flat,giving me a good surface. Poplar works well. Don't use plywood, as it could separate.

One big advantage in using a waste block, is that after the piece is finished inside and out, except for the foot where I've left thicker wood, I can part away part of the waste block and form the foot. I do my finishing on the lathe before parting the piece off.

Wally


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Re: Glue Blocks....

#2

Thanks for the info and

Roger Smith

>A beautiful piece of work.

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#3

Re: Glue Blocks....

Bernie

>Wally thanks for the info but what is the relationship of the sixe of work to the glue block. I do 20-24" dia platters what size glue block would you suggest?

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#4

Platters

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>For platters I use double faced tape. Since I found the right kind of tape to use, Permacel cloth tape, I've never had a failure. I've turned platters up to 22 inches using a 6 inch faceplate and tape. However, I've turned bowls up to perhaps 18 inches using a glue block. Just so the glue block is at least as large as the foot will be.

Wally

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#5

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Halsey Mccombs

>Thanks Wally.Halsey

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#6

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George Van

>Thanks for the post Wally.

Would basswood be too soft for the glue block? I have an awful lot of dry carving timbers.

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#7

Keith Tompkins

Re: Glue Blocks....

Keith Tompkins

>Thanks, Wally! nice....

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#8

Re: Platters

Bernie

>Thanks Wally Do you have a source for the tape.

I will give it a try.

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#9

Re: Platters

Juergen

>Wally, I did a Google search on the Permacel brand tape and find they have many kinds of tape. What is the number on the package of the tape that you use?

Re: Glue Blocks....

#10

Re: Glue Blocks.... *LINK*

Don Henthorn Smithville, Texas

>I always attributed my using glue blocks as being on the cheap side. (just kidding) I do not own a chuck and really don't see the need for one. I did have a big three jaw chuck which I used mostly to drill holes in round objects, but that chuck left with my old lathe when it sold. I found there are times, especially when doing the turning near the foot of the piece that I could trim the glue blocks back so I could easily do what I needed to do, A metal chuck wouldn't give me that flexibility. Of course I really am cheap, too(-;


http://users2.ev1.net/~henthorn

Re: Glue Blocks....

#11

It's what you've been taught...

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Hi Don,

Well I'm really cheap too..or as I like to say "thrifty". My problem is...that I learned from the start to use a chuck...so I've never gotten use to the idea of using glue blocks. However, I've been thinking of how much more material I could get out of my blanks if I used glue blocks. For somebody that is "thrifty"....this is a good thing. So I think I might try it more often just to see how I like it. Who knows, I might be able to sell my chuck and make some money for a few awesome bowl blanks!

Hee-hee : )

Jennifer

Re: Glue Blocks....

#12

Re: It's what you've been taught...

Mark Kauder. Phenix City, AL

>Jennifer,

I was lucky enough to catch this waste/glue block tip from Wally several years ago. While I was using the Mini, I had 7-8 3" face plates, and used those. Since going to the bigger lathe, I don't have but one face plate, so I cut my glue block on the BS, and then mount them on the screw chuck. Then I turn the dovetail necessary for my Supernova. I usually make 8-10 at a time. So now when I glue on the glue block, it is all ready for my Supernova chuck.

I still prefer faceplates, but I can certainly live with chuck work using a glue block.

I love that the glue block give me the whole piece of wood for the bowl, and I never compromise my design because of the chuck.

Mark

Re: Glue Blocks....

#13

Keith Tompkins

Re: It's what you've been taught...

Keith Tompkins

>Hi Jennifer, It is truly amazing what you can do with a glue-block.....that is what I use too. I make chucks for off-center stuff with glue-blocks also.

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#14

Thanks Wally

Barbara Gill, Remlik Virginia

>

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#15

Re: Thanks Wally

Lan Brady

>I like using the glue block instead of my chuck so that I can make a platter/plate from 1 inch of wood. However,I do not attach to a face plate.

I use hard maple for the block. It is 2 inches thick. I drill a 7/8' diameter hole and tap the hole to 1x8tpi. i coat the threads with ca glue and clean up the treads by re tapping the hole. I have not had a failure YET.

I gule with yellow glue and a paper joint between the piece. Again, I have had no failures. But yes, it has to cure overnight before turning.

Good Luck, Lan

Re: Glue Blocks....

#16

Re: Platters

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>I get my tape at Craft Supplies.

Wally

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#17

Re: Platters

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>I don't find a number. Just use what Craft Supplies sells.

Wally

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#18

Re: Glue Blocks....

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>I don't know because I haven't tried it. Seems to me it should be okay. Give it a try.

Wally

Re: Glue Blocks....

#19

Re: It's what you've been taught...

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>I started using glue block many years ago when I had a good supply of wood available from a supplier of instrument wood. Always beautiful wood but it was only 2-3/4 in. thick....no wood to waste.

Wally

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#20

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Philip Duffy

>Wally, What a nice contibution you made to the body of knowledge for all of us! Thanks. My confidence in tape and CA glue for blocks has been greatly enhanced. Phil

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#21

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Mike Rubes, Apex, NC

>Hi Wally,

Thanks for the post and pic. Just curious, do you turn the outside complete first and then do the inside? I'd get nervous trying to hollow something like that with that small of a glue surface holding it to the wasteblock! The times I've used a glue block, I turn the outside, but leave the foot bigger than the final will be, hollow the inside, and then trim the foot to final size. Do you do it that way or is the outside done straight away first?

Thanks again, that's a beautiful piece.

Mike

Smell of madrone burl in the air in Apex, NC!!

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#22

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Mark Kauder

>I am not sure how Wally does it, but I leave the bottom of the outside a little thick - then I hollow the inside, Sand the inside, Sand all the outside except the thick part, and then I final turn the bottom, sand it and part it off.

It might sound harder - but is less difficult thatn having to reverse turn to turn off a chuck tenon. (My bowls are parted off slightly concave, and then sanded off the lathe.)

Mark

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#23

Re: Drilling and Tapping Glue Blocks

Spencer Cone

>Lan,

I do pretty much the same thing drilling and tapping but use 3.5" mahogany, as I have a ton of it around the shop. I use 5 minute epxoy though with no paper. The face of the bock is just slightly concave to make sure there is plenty of glue in the joint. I clamp every thing between centers and its ready to turn in about 15 minutes. I get 3 or 4 uses out of a block and when its too thin I save it and mount it to a home made face plate. My Grumbine style compression chuck is a good example. A word of caution though..... Hard maple I've found doesn't really soak up the epoxy for a good joint so be careful. LOL DAMHIKT

Spence

A Tried and True Swamp Yankee(Cheap!)in Rhode Island ;)

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#24

Re: Glue Blocks....

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>I do it just about the same way the Mark describes it. Rough turn the outside and inside, wet wood or dry. I leave thicker wood around the base area for more solid and secure turning. Finish the outside including the sanding. Then finish turning the inside. Finish turning the foot area. Instead of parting it off now as Mark does, I do all of my finishing before parting the piece off. Then all that's left is finishing the bottom and the signature.

Wally

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#25

Re: Thanks Wally *LINK*

Don Henthorn Smithville, Texas

>I make the beginning blank out of a square of 2"x4" and then hollow a 1/2" deep 3 1/4" spot in the blank. Then I can turn scraps of whatever suitable wood I have to fit the hole and glue them in. A 3/4" thick piece is great, thicker is even better. Then I glue the workpiece to that and turn away. If I need to remove some of the insert, no problem. If I need to remove even more taking off some of the 2"X4" that is no problem either. The base 2"x4" is cheap and easy to do. I can turn the hole in the 2"x4" deeper and glue in another piece of scrap if I need to. I don't use any paper in the glue joint since I will part the piece from the block with a chisel.


http://users2.ev1.net/~henthorn