stuck adapter

Re: stuck adapter

Mike Schwing from Md.

>This makes me wonder why adapters get stuck so frequently on Powermatics. This is the third incident of this I've heard of in a few months, and mine counts for a fourth. My "gorilla" tactics resulted in a broken spindle lock, which Powermatic replaced and they even sent a technician to do the replacement for me, at no charge.

In fact, I was sure I was going to read that you'd broken the spindle lock, too.

The threads weren't stripped or damaged on mine, but I wound up needing a torch to free that adapter after the spindle lock broke. Brute muscle just wasn't doing the job, even with big wrenches.

Powermatic sent me a couple of their nylon spindle washers along with the new spindle lock. They're always on my spindle now, and nothing is difficult to release. No more frozen adapters, but it sure was painful getting there.

Re: stuck adapter

Mark Kauder

>Bob,

I am glad the Powermatic is fixing you up. I feel your pain, I have one of those adapters and they are pricy. But can you really expect Craft Supplies to replace an item (at their expense) that you damaged because you did not check to see if the wood would clear the bed? It was not a manufacturing defect.

While it might be great that companies like Powermatic (WHS Tool Group) will replace the broken part, but it represents a raise in their cost of doing business. That additional cost is added to the overall cost of every product they sell.

I hope your lathe gets fixed.

Mark

Re: stuck adapter

Dinyar Chavda

>Bob:

You "hit the bed" with an oversized piece of wood, "wrenched off the faceplate", used "gorilla tactics" to put two 24" pipe wrenches on to take the adaptor off, thereby ruining the threads.

From Mike's comments, it seems as though adaptors get stuck frequently on Powermatics.

Wiht all due respect to you, I fail to see why you expect Craft Supplies to replace something that occurred either because you abused the equipment, or was caused by a frequent recurrence in Powermatic's product?

For the future, may I duggest that you use either the commercially available No Lock Spindle Washers, or make them yourself from any plastic tops (the tops and bottoms of Crystal Light containers work great and last for a long time. They will help get the adaptors and faceplates separated a lot easier (I speak from experience).

Dinyar

Re: stuck adapter

bob strand

>All,

I may have commented hastily on the integrity of Craft Supplies as I know they are a reputable company. However, was it the spindle or the adapter that failed under the strain? While it was my error Powermatic was far more understanding of the situation than Craft Suppies in sending me a new spindle and bearings than Craft Supply regarding a $59.99 adapter.

I do appreciate your comments. I had plastic washers against the spindle and the adapter.

Thank you,

Bob

Cause?

Bob Hackett

>Mike is seeing the same thing I`ve noted.Powermatics seem to have more difficulty in this area,roughly more than all the other brands conbined.I also note far more damage to the machine once the parts are unstuck.

Anyone have any insight as to the root cause of the problem?How do the replacement parts differ from the originals?Once the replacement parts are installed is the problem fixed or just waiting to happen again(after the warranty expires)?

I ask all these questions because my brother has both a Powermatic and a habit of calling me long distance hoping I can solve his machinery problems.We are also considering outfitting our new turning program with 6 of these machines and the classroom environment is always tough on equipment.

I also am somewhat over the top about actually fixing a problem as opposed to just changing parts and hoping the problem goes away.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Cause?

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Bob I'm with you. I'd much rather have corrected the problem rather than just fixed the part. My lathe was under factory warranty so I went in that direction. While I know that we're talking about stuck adapters, I was disappointed to see that Powermatic simply replaced the cast iron spindle lock with the identical part, rather than recognize that a machined collar would have been much stronger. Also, why make the collar the weak part in the system? The pin would be user replaceable, so if it were engineered to break first that would be less costly for all involved. Or, even if the collar were made in two pieces it wouldn't require removal of the spindle and possible damage to the bearings. So simple!

Anyway, back to the problem. After I finally managed to break free my spindle adapter - a 4" extension from Best Wood Tools, I examined it for cause. What I found was that the threads of the spindle actually scored the adapter on the section forward of the threads. I think this means that the adapter should have been bored a bit wider in that section because no thread should have been touching. I'm certain it was this arrangement that led to the stuck adapter as the spindle was kind of acting as a tap on the extension. BUT, that can't be the whole problem, because it has not happened again after using nylon washers.

Re: Possible Cause & Cure *LINK*

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>I addressed this issue when getting faceplates for my Stubby because the spindle has a slightly longer thread section as well as a full 1/4" of unthreaded spindle next to the shoulder making many faceplates unsuitable for the same reason you guys had problems; jammed threads. As it was explained to me, the adapter or faceplate will seize if a) the entry thread relief is not cut deep enough or b) the part's bore is not longer than the exposed spindle thus allowing the spindle to bottom in the bore before the part's rim contacts the spindle's shoulder.

I get my faceplates from Seahorse Fabrication [link below - usual disclaimers] and he asked for the exact measurements of my spindle to prevent such problems. Great faceplates, BTW.

I have a spindle lock on my lathe, however, I never use it to remove mounted items; I don't want to impair the accuracy of the indexing holes or the pin. Instead I always use the "2-wrench" method with a block of wood set on the ways. Rotate the spindle so the spindle-holding wrench makes contact with the wood and then an easy tap on the other wrench frees the faceplate or adapter every time.

Mark


Seahorse

Re: stuck adapter

Duane C.Leach

>High Mike

Do the plastic washers cause any vibration with any size bowl blank.

Duane