About tool bits from ENCO...

I've done this, and I'll share my "experience"

steve antonucci

>1. Thick rod is better- 3/8" stuff can chatter on a heavy cut. I use 5/8" and 1/2" cold rolled (isn't pretty like drill rod, but doesn't dent up my tool rests either.)

2.) Cutters- all of those will work. I have some M2, some cobalt, both are hard enough to take an nice edge and cut wood.

Steve

P.S. Carbide bits broke under heavy roughing YMMV

steve antonucci

>

Tool bits

Fred in NC

>Carbide bits are not the best for turning wood. Besides breaking easily, you will need special wheels to sharpen them. Most metal shops use them and throw them away.

I buy M2 bits myself. Most useful sizes are 3/16" and 1/4" square, and 1/4" round. Remember that if you put a square bit in a round hole, the hole needs to be larger, and there must be enough metal left to drill and tap for the set screw.

A round bit can be made to fit a lot easier, the hole does not eat up as much of the metal. You can grind a 'flat spot' on it where it meets the set screw to keep it from turning around.

I have ground bits for special purposes also, like a beading tool for very small beads (1/16").

I hope this helps.

Re: About tool bits from ENCO...

John Lucas

>Bubba Bob

I use 3/16 HSS bits. They fit perfectly in a 1/4" hole. I held mine in the hole with a set screw but Iknow many people who simply hot glue the cutter in place. If you ned to remove it simply heat it up and the glue will release.

You don't need drill rod for the shaft. I used cold roll steel from Lowes but anything will work. Bigger is better when it comes to hollowing. I've found that 1/2" steel will start chattering about 6 to 8" deep. 3/4" will go much deeper.

One more ques on homemade tools...

BubbaBob

>...to prevent torque from twisting the tool in my hands, is it worth welding a three sided "box" to the side of the tool shaft to rest on the tool rest to help in fighting the inclination for the tool to twist in my hands, or do I just grip tighter?

BubbaBob

PS to John...a 3/16 round bit or square?

I use a Vise Grip

steve antonucci

>

Re: About tool bits from ENCO... *LINK*

Don Henthorn Smithville, Texas

>Hey, Bubba. Thanks. You ask all the right questions.


http://users2.ev1.net/~henthorn

Re: One more ques on homemade tools...

Steve Worcester

>For under 6" of depth, I use a 3/8 rod. 6-10" or so, 5/8 or 3/4. 3/4" rod can go up to about 12 or so inches deep.

I use all 3/16" bits. 10% cobalt. Only difference really is that the cobalt will help it hold an edge longer. I cut the standard (2.5"?) tool bits in half with a small abrasive cutoff wheel in a drill.

To put them into the rod, I make the one end round on the grinder, just keep rolling it and round over the square edges gradually, and superglue it into a hole that is drilled in the shaft.

I made adapters so that the 3/8" shaft can go in a standard Hosaluk type handle. The 5/8" are used in ecsentric end handles like David Ellsworth shows in his videos. The 3/4" and larger go into a captive bar system, sort of like Jamiesons.

Experiment! It's only a little metal.

Steve Worcester

www.turningwood.com

Re: One more ques on homemade tools... *LINK*

Darrell Feltmate

>I find an arm brace helps to reduce the torque effect. See the bottom of my page on making a swan neck tool.


Swan Neck tool