End Grain Chatter

Re: End Grain Chatter

Richard Allen

>Hi Walt

You don't say how long the 4x4 is. You also don't mention which jaws you are using on the Talon.

The chatter is coming from the wood flexing, like you didn't know that.

This is my thinking on this is:

For a 4x4 you should have a 3 1/2" to 3 3/4" tennon to grip in the chuck. That would be the #3 jaws for the Talon. Even with the #3 jaws the length of the 4x4 shouldn't be longer than 5" without additional support.

That additional support can be a spindle steady. But you can also use the help of a friend to provide the support.

Stick a big scraper between the ways and pry against the spinning round piece of cherry as you hollow the goblet. There should be enough pressure against the handle of the scraper to burn the wood. As you get chatter just apply more pressure. This procedure is nearly impossible to do by yourself. Your helper will only need to help you while you hollow the goblet.

That procedure should get you to about 12" - 15" from the chuck. If you want to go longer than that you will need a chuck and set of jaws that have a deeper grip than the Talon with the #3 jaws. The Axminster Precision chuck with the 2" cylinder jaws.

Good Luck

Richard

Re: End Grain Chatter

John Lucas

>Walt

Having turned several long stemmed goblets recently I know the problem. The best solution I came up with was building a steady rest. I tried larger jaws. I tried using my fingers to steady and this works fairly well if you run the lathe slow enough to keep from burning your fingers.

Using a faceplate worked for shorter goblets but you had to deal with the screws. I tried gluing the goblet blank to a wasteblock. That worked OK on shorter goblets but not so well on long ones.

The steady rest works so well you can be fairly agressive when hollowing.

Re: End Grain Chatter

Barry Turner

>I didn't hear you mention drilling a hole to almost the depth of the goblet. Do this first, say about a 3/4" hole and use a 1/2" fingernail ground spindle gouge to hollow with. It works on boxes. It oughta work on goblets!

Re: End Grain Chatter

Keith Tompkins

>Yep, It does!

Re: End Grain Chatter

Scott Thorburn

>Walt, I do a lot of goblets, mostly I do them from green wood ( Dried 4" stock is to expensive for me) and then return them when dry. But I have done some with dry wood as well. I have a couple of ideas that I would mention for your consideration.

First I would make sure you have the tenon fit properly in the chuck. Size the tenon so that you have maximum contact of the jaws with the wood. It is also important to make sure that the Wood does not touch the bottom of the jaws. The wood should register on the top face of the jaws. This is very important in eliminating rocking of the blank.

Secondly drill a hole in the center of the goblet to the depth of hollowing needed. I use a spindle gouge or a lamp auger bit to do this. ( Both make sure the hole is centered on the blank)

For hollowing I use a oneway ring tool. (You can use any tool designed for end grain hollowing.) I start hollowing from the center out, working your way down to the depth you have set. You have to use the ring tool at low speed, but I can hollow a goblet in under 5 min. I sometimes use a scraper to smooth the sides of the goblet ( You can use the ring tool but it is a bit finicky).

I sometimes use a center steady if I am feeling aggressive and have a batch to do.

All that being said There are many ways to skin a cat.

The above works for me.

Re: End Grain Chatter

Bill Grumbine, Kutztown PA

>Hi Walt

I just got done with some goblets this weekend, and I use a steady rest if the wood is long. Drilling out the end to remove some of the wood is also helpful, although I will confess that I did not bother with that. I probably should have, as it would have made the job go a bit faster.

My procedure is to rough the blank round, and then mark out where the bowl of the goblet will be. Then I install the steady and hollow out the inside. Once the inside is hollowed and sanded to completion, I remove the steady and bring up my Oneway live center with the large cone installed. Now, I have owned this center for eight or nine years, and SWMBO was wanting to know where THAT part came from. I guess that means I can smuggle more tools in that I thought! But anyway...

With the thing held between centers, I fiish off the stem and base, and turn some captive rings to boot. I part it off with a thin parting tool and sand the bottom with a disk in a drill, and it is done.

I hope this helps you out some.

Bill

Thanks

Walt

>I will try your sugestions, and make a steady rest.