No fire involved

Oooola-la!

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Very nice Mike! That is one pretty piece of timber.

Beautimous!

Jen

Re: No fire involved

Mark Kauder

>Mike,

You are turning out the most fantastic suff!!

If you like that sort of non-segmented stuff. ;)

Mark

Re: No fire involved

-e-

>beautiful -- your finishing process really lets the wood's beauty come through --- could you detail more of your finishing process?

secrets, baby, let's have those secrets!

Re: No fire involved

John Lucas

>Mike

That's no fair. you get to start with good wood and them make it really beautiful. I start with wood that probably should be burned. Mine is less expensive however. Good Job on this one.

Re: No fire involved

Raymond Overman

>My vote is for "Fire Line"

Oh, that was for that other piece. Great job Mike. Beautiful piece.

I just want some turning stock like that sometime. I wonder if the maple in my front yard will fall toward the house or not? And will it have some figure like that?

Wow

Randy

>That is truley awesome. I love the shape and figure of that one.

I'm sooo Jealous

randy

Re: No fire involved

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Thanks everybody. OK, how I finished this one.

1. Sand to 300 using powered discs, then from 600-12000 using micro mesh, hand held, medium lathe speed.

2. One coat of Watco Danish Natural, liberally applied, 10 minutes later wiped off as much as possible with paper towels.

3. Three coats of Mylands Cellulose Sanding Sealer, each applied thusly - lathe off, using t-shirt material, rubbed on thinly. When dry a few minutes later, application marks/lines removed by rubbing out with 0000 steel wool till no lines or other blemishes are visible. All 3 coats applied this way.

4. Two coats of Mylands Cellulose Lacquer, applied exactly the same as above.

5. Sanded by hand with 600, 1800, 2400 micro-mesh.

6. Given a coat of orange oil/beeswax mix.

The above takes no more than about 30 minutes. The trick, IMO, is to start finishing with a "finished surface" that is accomplished sanding to a very high grit.

I know there are discussions/disagreements about finishes' ability to stick to such a highly sanded surface. I don't see it in any of my work. If it is a long term issue, I'd sure be happy to see some scientific comparisons as proof.

before anyone asks

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Step 5 involves sanding with MICRO MESH grits 600, 1800, 2400. Not standard grits. 600 micro mesh is a finer grit than 0000 steel wool, I believe it compares to 1500 grit standard sandpaper.

I just figured someone was going to ask why I went back to a lower grit than the steel wool. Beat ya to the punch!

THANKS

-e-

>

Re: No fire involved

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>A beautiful platter. Some questions on your finish. Why the 3 coats of sanding sealer after 1 coat of oil? I've never considered wax to be a long lasting finish, so I seldom use it. How long do you think the oil/beeswax finish will hold up, compared to a D. tung oil final finish?

Wally

Re: Double Wow

Phil on the mountain top

>Nice looking wood

Wait a minute!

Bob Hackett

>How come you`re holding out on us?We want to see the side and bottom views too!

Exceptional piece Mike!Beautiful wood and a well executed simple form coupled with a flawless finish,a combination that can`t be beat.

I`d suggest keeping this one for your personal collection.You are putting at least two pieces a year into your own collection aren`t you?

Mainely,Bob

Re: No fire involved

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Wally, three coats of sanding sealer is what I used to use as a finish. It is a lacquer based sealer, so it kind of makes for a nice lacquer finish. But a while ago I bought some of the Mylands lacquer and added a coat or two to my existing finishing method and I perceived it to be an improvement.

I would not attempt to use this as a replacement for a high gloss finish, as I have yet to successfully rub one and then buff it on the wheels to as nice a gloss as half a dozen or so coats of sprayed lacquer. But if you don't need a thick, glossy, showroom finish, I have yet to find a way to beat this method.

I expect the beeswax/orange oil to last a few hours or days at most. I use it to get the same effect as Lemon Pledge does to furniture. Makes it look a little nicer for a little while. Kind of like combing my hair.

Re: before anyone asks *LINK*

Peter Teubel

>Hmmm...I always thought 1500 grit MM equates to 400 grit wet/dry paper. The pic is a screen shot from the link below...




http://www.sculpt.com/

Re: before anyone asks

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Close! Knew it was somewhere around there. Whats a few hundred when you're over 1000?

Re: No fire involved

RevDoug

>Another fine piece of wood, Mike. I assume that this is out our your "wood dump?" Some how it doesn't seem right. But, we all have the same possibilities you have. Most of us just haven't gotten out and beat the bushes like you have.

One fine piece.

Turn 'em round,

RevDoug