Klein Jig, Some help...
Loose Tenon
>I have the threading jig and use it a lot. There are, however, some things to keep in mind:
The sides of the female opening must be straight and a clearance must be cut at the opening of the lid, a 1/16" wide and deep, then champfered to 45 degrees.
To cut the male thread tenon add 3/64" to the internal measurment of the female thread and cut a small sizing tenon on the base to reflect this.
If it's slighly oversized that's o.k. as you may get movement in the base after hollowing.
Then base tenon can be adjusted for size and lenghthened to 3/16" or slightly longer. This is then champfered to 45 degrees on the end.
As others have stated, (DON'T touch the teeth), grind the end of the thread cutter so that you can cut closer to the top of the lid and the shoulder of the base without fouling the work.
In Richard Raffan's Box Book he cut's a clearance at the end of the male tenon, I do the same with a home made tool from a masonary tool.
I haven't use Super Glue to strenghthen the threads, but on softer wood I'll make two passes.
I use glue blocks and don't remove the lid until I'm happy with the thread fit. Bonnie doesn't recommend this in her literature, but I remove surplus material from the lid in an effort to get a grain match. When I get to within a 1/2 " or 5/8" I remove the lid and continue to shape the box. When complete the remaining wood to get a grain match can be removed from the shoulder on the base. Note: there will be movement that occurs during sanding so keep an eye on the grain match as you proceed.
Practice on some scrap wood to start and whatever internal shape you have on the base, be sure and leave a straight portion at the opening so you can jame fit the base for final finishing.
I hope I've helped and not confused.
Loose Tenon