Nova DVR levers upgrade

Re: Nova DVR levers upgrade

Bud Gabaree

>Roger,

I'm pretty slow on the uptake; can you expand on what you've done? I don't understand what you're doing.

Thanks, Bud

Re: Nova DVR levers upgrade

Jonathan Spool

>Hi Bud,

I haven't done anything yet. I am looking to upgrade the tightening levers on my lathe to ones that are longer and have better grips. I saw this posted somewhere, and can't recall where.

Re: Nova DVR levers upgrade

Jim Pugh in Elyria, OH

>Okay, Lynn M. first suggested these and my buddy made good notes. I recently got a set for my DVR. The parts come from Reid Tool. wwwreidtool.com

The first item is #KHX-345 95MM ZINC ADJUSTABLE HANDLE M12 X 25 STUD. This will cost <$9 and takes the place of the sliding tee handle tool post lock. Simply unscrew the original handle and screw in the new one.

The second item is #ESP-85 SOFT TOUCH HANDLE 3.35" LONG. You need two of them and they cost $3.31 each in the new catalog. These need to be drilled out with a 13/32" regular drill bit or the next fractional size larger. Drill the full depth but not through.

Unscrew the banjo lock handle and using an adjustable clamp carefully push the rubber handle on until it bottoms. Do the same thing with tail stock handle. Oh yes, screw them back in please.

Makes a really neat upgrade for about $20 which includes shipping.

Thanks very much, Jim

Jonathan Spool

>

Re: Nova DVR levers upgrade

Bob Moffett

>The article was in More Woodturning about 2 years ago. It was part of a series of 4 or 5 articles about the DVR. I'm not sure which issues.

Re: Nova DVR levers upgrade *LINK*

georgetroy

>You will find more information about DVR levers and the machines on listed web site. GT


Nova owners

Good notes, here's the original..

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>section from my DVR review:

The locking handles of the banjo and tailstock have long been a weakness of the Teknatool lathes. The manufacturer has made several changes in these handles over time and model, but they remain somewhat uncomfortable and awkward to use. The good news is that relatively cheap modifications can greatly improved this aspect of the DVR. For around twenty dollars, you can outfit your DVR with comfortable, effective, durable handles, greatly easing the day to day use of the lathe.

The banjo is locked using a short metal lever. This 4 inch locking lever is the same as that supplied for the tailstock, and in both cases is over an inch shorter than the one that came on the Nova 3000. This shorter length is necessary on the tailstock in order to clear the tailstock hand wheel, and for that purpose is acceptable. However, for use on the banjo, the lever is both too short and too small in diameter to be truly comfortable. Fortunately, you can improve upon the handle quite easily and cheaply. Reid Tool Supply is a good source for replacement handles (Reid calls them Gear Levers), and looking through the pages of their catalog you will find you can obtain several sorts of handle styles and lengths (something between 4.5 and 6.5 inches will work the best). My favorite solution is to scavenge an original Nova 3K handle, or lacking that, to obtain a basic steel shaft that is threaded on one or both ends (e.g., Reid # GLS-170). Over either of those shafts I use the Ergostyle soft touch push fit handles (Reid # ESP-85). These �push fit� handles are not really push fit for the 10mm metric sized Nova levers, so you must ream them out with a 10 mm drill bit to get them to fit�putting a little hole in the end will also help release the internal air as you push them on. I like these handles so much that I don�t mind going to these extra steps and use them for both the banjo and the tailstock levers. The firm molded rubber of the Ergostyle handles gives you a 7/8 inch diameter by 3.35 inch long gripping surface, rather than the hard 10mm (essentially 3/8 inch) diameter surface of the steel levers. Regardless of the levers you obtain, make sure they have the M10 x 1.5 threading that is necessary to screw them into the Nova mounting holes, and use a good wrap of Teflon tape or some thread locking compound to keep these coarse threads tight against their mating surfaces.

The locking lever for the tool rest is as much an aggravation as that for the banjo. It is not infrequent that a hand grasping the banjo locking lever is squeezed up against the tool rest post locking lever (or vice versa). I�ve found the solution is to use a ratcheting/adjustable handle, not unlike those found on many mini-lathes, but much heavier duty. Again, Reid Tool has the KHX-345 metal handle, which has the necessary M12x1.75, one inch stud. This is one of my favorite modifications to my DVR. This big secure handle gives a good solid grip, and can be adjusted to whatever angle is most conducive to operation or getting the handle out of the way.

Before leaving this area, I want to point out a simple adjustment that can be made to the banjo locking mechanism. Some find, either upon receiving the lathe, or after a period of use, that the banjo does not lock down quite as tightly as might be desired. A simple improvement can almost always be attained by sliding the banjo off the bed, turning it over and tightening the bolt that attaches the locking plate to the locking mechanism. This bolt is countersunk and has a socket for an 8 mm Allen wrench. It will already feel tight, but if you apply force, it will usually tighten about an additional quarter turn. I�ve done this on two Nova 3ks and my current DVR, and in each case it has improved the locking action. While you have the banjo upside run a file along the bottom side of the banjo housing, just enough to smooth over any variations in paint thickness and remove any casting flash�doing so will improve how smoothly your banjo will slide, as well as allow it to lock down more securely. One last thing while you have the banjo off is to lightly oil the slide. This can be done from the top side as well, by removing two plastic caps. Lubricating the locking mechanism is discussed in the DVR manual and is basic maintenance for these lathes. If ever you find the banjo is seeming to become difficult to position freely, it is usually that the slide portion of the locking mechanism is due for a little lubrication.

Re: Good notes, here's the original..

Duane C.Leach

>It just seems wrong to have to make so many costly and laborious modifications to a machine that should have designed and manufactured correctly in the first place. After all turning is supposed to be fun.

Just my opinion.

Duane

Re: Good notes, here's the original..

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>Gee, most have described these changes as cheap and easy.

While I agree to the extent that it would be nice if Teknatool would/had included these things, there absence really doesn't reflect on the basic design of the lathe, which is really quite good.

Whether it be a gouge, a lathe, or even a car, I look for a product that gets the essentials correct that I can't easily change (with respect to a gouge, that means I don't worry about the bevel grind, but I am concerned about the alloy and whether the flute is ground correctly). Beyond that, some will always find some way to improve on or customize even the best of products. Ever see the catalogs of aftermarket parts for Porsche 911's or Mercedes SL's. They're filled with changes (and yes, even different knobs and handles) to what most would consider to be very well designed and manufactured products. There are few products that someone can't find a way to make just a little better (at least to by someone's individual standards), and that includes Stubby's and Oneways. As the many catalogs and frequent sharing of tips suggest, quite a few individuals find making such modifications satisfying, if not fun in and of itself. Gees, I didn't think all the "fun" of woodturning was restricted simply to changing the shape and appearance of wood.

Re: Good notes, here's the original..

Edward

>Amen Duane. It's not that they just started making lathes and other accessories yesterday.

ED

Re: Good notes, here's the original..

Bob Hackett

>If you`re happy working(or playing for that matter)with what someone else thinks you need to get the job done then more power to you.There are quite afew folks,myself included,that believe anything you get off the shelf is just a starting point.

The gouges I buy come unhandled as I make my own handles to fit my hands and the way I chose to work.The few factory handles that are relegated to the seldom used tools have been rechucked to be modified to fit and have the slick factory finish removed or have been wrapped with tape for a better grip.

All my lathes have attachments that I`ve made myself from toolrests to levers and control boxes,motor mounts,steady rests,chucks,etc.When looking to aquire new equipment I look for the essentials,good bearings,stout construction and versatility both now and in the future.

I make the best of what`s available(sometimes even from the dump)and I just assume that I`ll be modifying whatever it is I buy,be it new or used.

The folks that mass produce products are making things designed to fit everybody,as a result they don`t fit anybody exactly.They make things as cheaply as they can and still be acceptable,that`s how they remain in business.

Most really good companies listen to thier customers and take the initial changes the seasoned craftsmen make to the first run of a product and make it at least an option the second time around.We are constantly doing R+D for people like Harley Davidson,major auto mfgs,even people like Oneway and Stubby ask the big name turners(and the man on the street at symposiums)what they would like to see in improvements.

If it wasn`t for those folks out there who are never satisfied and constantly need to tinker and build you`d still be turning with carbon steel gouges ground straight across on some lathe that looks alot like an old Rockwell with a long bed and only a 12" swing.

I think Clay Foster was the one who summed it up when he said"Any tool is just a starter kit,treat it like one".

Mainely,Bob

Re: Good notes, here's the original..

Duane C.Leach

>Hi Lyn.

I didn't make my last post to start an argument. My opinion was and is that equipment ( in this case the lathe) should be designed with the majority of the people who are going to use it in mind. There are a lot of us who don't care about reinventing the thing. we, I just want to turn wood.

I do agree that some people like to customize their new car, boat, tractor,or lathe with shinier than orininal bells & wistles, nobs & levers to fit their personal needs or whims or to reflect their need to show off to others how much they have. But they seldom have the know how, materials, and equipment, to be able to move the location of the operating lever, control knob, or switch to the other side or on top or where ever it will be more convenient and safer for the user.

I am not an engineer. I wish I was then maybe I could understand why so many things are desinged so poorly. Maybe smoeone will come along and take the best of each brand of lathe and combine them into a more near perfect lath. One that takes little or no efert to adjust. Controls or switches and levers are in just the right place. And the noise level wouldn't interfear with the raido. Wouldn't life be grand then. Problem is we wouldn't have anything to complain about or reengineer.

I have used this lathe on a few occations and I have found I did not like it. But that's just me speaking for myself. If you like it and you like to tinker with it and tinkering makes you happy then I reckon you will be happy for awhile.

At any rate happy turning or tinkering.

Duane

Re: Good notes, here's the original..

Edward

>Bob, If I wanted a fixer-upper I'd buy a used lathe or car or pickup truck and go to work on it. But these Companies , and their dealers, charge a good dollar for their equipment that I should not have to go out and buy handles for or spend a lot of time to trouble shoot. Maybe that's the difference between the $2000 machine and the $5000 one.

ED.

Re: Good notes, here's the original..

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>Yah, I'm not into really into an argument either. I've probably got more of a track record of criticizing Teknatool (among others) than just about anybody (just look up in the rec.crafts.woodturing archives and see what I 've said about the Nova 3000 tailstock, or the DVR prior to it coming out). It just surpised me that you perceived as costly and laborious design fixes what I saw as a very inexpensive and easy improvement. Twenty dollars for largely screw on parts didn't strike me that way.

The discussion on levers took up less than one page of what was a 28 page (in MS Word) review, not counting photos. It was a minor complaint in the midst of a very thorough description and analysis of the DVR when it first came out. There were other more serious faults I had with the lathe, but they were also discussed in the context of what were some outstanding strengths.

I think my attitudes towards Teknatool is fairly transparent and has been made explicit more than once. I admire them for their desire to bring innovative new products to life at a price that most woodturners can afford. Getting that affordable price requires compromises not found in more expensive products, but generally I find their compromises occur in the right areas (i.e, peripherals rather than basics). On the other hand, I despise that they often undermine all the good by less than consistent quality control. I don't mind compromise, but I hate surprise defects. With the DVR, it appears that Teknatool has done better than their usual with respect to quality control.

Actually, when I can, I vastly prefer products that don't require "tinkering." My now 30 year old Rolex has never seen a repair or modification, but alas, I can't say that for most products I have purchased, including Porsches (I go back long enough ago to when swapping out the 911 hydraulic chain tensionsers for an aftermarket mechanical style was not considered a cosmetic indulgence) and PM-66 tablesaws (didn't even fire it up before adding a Brett Guard and a second stop switch for the right side of the blade).

For what it's worth, I primarily use a DVR for two reasons. One, I''m sold on a swivel headstock (even when I almost purchased a Stubby, John Jordan and I arranged to have it come with a swivel headstock) as it makes working bowls and making hollow forms so much easier for me than any other lathe set up I've been exposed to. The second is that I deliberately use a DVR so that I can write my product reviews using a test bed in the financial reach of most of those who will be reading them. I just don't think many of my reviews would be as generally applicable if my foundational test bed was a lathe that was more than the majority of woodturners were using. I developed the sensitivity from my days of evaluating high end audio equipment, eventually realizing that I was pluggin components for testing into a "reference system" which far exceeded what the typical music lover could ever afford. Yah, I could detect differences, but were they the sort of differences that would ever occur for 99 percent of music systems.

So this informed part of my decision to use the DVR as my reference test bed. The desire to "tinker" is the last reason I would pick a lathe, and fortunately, I've actually found exceeding little need to tinker with the DVR in any fundamental way.