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Red wine stains on goblets

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Red wine stains on goblets

#1

Red wine stains on goblets

Ed Mackey

>I just finished 2 goblets that I plan to give as wedding gifts. (one Maple, the other Sweetgum) I used waterlox (tung oil/varnish mix) and buffed them with Carnauba wax. The question I was asked was.."will red wine stain the goblet..?" I knew it was ok to drink wine from but was unsure of staining..any ideas..?

Thanks

Ed Mackey in Charlotte,NC

Re: Red wine stains on goblets

#2

You should. . .

Ron in Drums PA

>You should test this problem out with a Magnum of Merlot before giving these away as gifts.

Of course, as always, you should do this in an inconspicuous spot. ;-)

Re: Red wine stains on goblets

#3

Re: Red wine stains on goblets

Andrew Hilton

>I make a lot of chalices (religious goblets) used on a daily basis. Varnishes aren't the best of finishes to use for this purpose.

At least you didn't use a spirit-based (alcohol) varnish. You used an oil-based one (although the Tung in it isn't what you're probably thinking it is) if it's the Waterlox Original formula.

The alcohol-based Varnishes would break down pretty quickly in an alcohol rich environment. The Waterlox will take longer, but it'll still break down from the wine, I'm sorry to say.

Will the red wine stain it? Oh, yes. Once the stain gets annoying, refinish by liberally wiping with mineral spirits, Naptha or Toluene until the stain is gone and then reapply the same type of varnish.

Re: Red wine stains on goblets

#4

Re: Red wine stains on goblets

Ed Mackey

>Andrew,

What would be a better finish for goblets used for wine.

Thanks

Ed Mackey

Re: Red wine stains on goblets

#5

Re: Red wine stains on goblets

Andrew Hilton

>My finish of choice for, at the very least, the interior of the goblets/chalices is a pre-catalyzed (pre-cat) lacquer or melamine lacquer. It's quite resistant to alcohol and is fairly easy to get a good finish with it. It rubs out and repairs easily as well if that's needed in the future. What I do is use Pure Tung Oil (which is really alcohol resistant) first; let it dry/cure completely; and then follow up with the lacquer.

Most thin epoxies are alcohol resistant too but it's extremely difficult to get an acceptable finish with it in this type of application. It's also not all that flexible so you tend to get cracks in it here.

If you make your own long-oil (lots of oil comparatively) varnish and then make it a Danish Oil product (which is just a varnish + oil mixture) using Pure Tung Oil, then that could be acceptable as far as alcohol resistance but the commercial thinned/wiping varnishes (Waterlox is one of these) just don't cut it from what I've found. For very occasional use, it might be fine for some though.

Regardless of what finish you use, you're going to get some degree of staining. The best thing about the pre-cat lacquers is that you can, and I recommend this to my customers, occasionally wipe out the cup of the goblet with some Tequila. You'll get rid of the stain but not harm the finish. Or you could use denatured alcohol but then you'd have to be sure to wait long enough before using it again. The Tequila does a great job.

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