Apple is a lot like cherry
Dominic Greco in Richboro PA
>John,
I'm sure other (and more knowledgeable) turners will chime in here, but here is my take.
Apple is a lot like cherry in that it will crack at the slightest provocation. Most fruit-woods will act this way. But don't get discouraged! Apple can be a real joy to turn. You need to seal the ends of the log to reduce the checking and cracking that occurs.
If you want to make blanks for tool handles, you'll need to have dry wood first. I suggest cutting the wood into over-sized slabs and coating the end grain with Anchorseal (or a similar product). Then you're going to have to
"sticker" it, and then place it somewhere to dry for the appropriate amount of time.
If you're set on turning bowls, read Bill Grumbine's write up found here,
From Log to Lathe
for a great "how to" on preparing bowl blanks.
Now as far as roughing out the bowl, I'd stick with the "traditional air drying method". Rough turn to 10% wall thickness, coat the end grain, wrap in a paper bag, and allow the bowl to dry for one month. After a month, unwrap the bowl and set it aside for the appropriate time (anywhere from 6 to 12 months depending on the size and %MC).
The other alternative is to use the Soap Soaking method after roughing out. This technique was popularized by Ron Ken (and later by my buddy Phil Wall). Basically, you make up a solution of 6 parts liquid dish detergent to 1 part water and soak the bowl overnight. Remove it, and allow it to drip dry overnight. Then turn it to final thickness. While the wood won't crack, it will distort somewhat. You won't end up with a "perfectly" round bowl (which is the reason I prefer air drying over this method). But soap soaking has been reported to work well on reducing the chances of cracking on finicky woods like apple and madrone.
Anyway you choose realize that you have a great resource of information here at WoodCentral and that most, if not all of your questions will get a timely response.
See ya around,
Dominic