Sapwood in design over time

both

TDaniel

>Dave, since you obviously have a lot of it I would do both; experimenting is half the fun.

TD

Re: Sapwood in design over time

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>IMHO - the most stunning Walnut pieces that I have seen turned had both Heartwood and Sapwood. The contrast is fantastic to me.

Mark

Re: Sapwood in design over time

Dale Stansbery

>My experience with walnut cut in warm weather is that the white sapwood will start to turn a splotchy gray-brown in a few weeks. That was with blanks that were sealed with Anchorseal. I don't know what may happen if you dry more quickly without a sealer.

Green turner bowl

Phil Joines, Krum, Tx

>This bowl was turned green and finished with oil about 4 years ago. The sap wood color hasn't changed.

The pics kind of blurry, I'm not as stable as I ustabe.

Re: Sapwood in design over time

Brad Vietje

>Dave,

Walnut sapwood will darken with time until it is dry. Once the finished bowl is dry it shouldn't darken enough to notice. I'd recommend rough turning a few bowls and start them drying now, rather than later, when the sapwood will have lost some of its contrast. You might also try some thin bowls turned green, and wet sand up through the grits to about 320, then dry the bowl, and hand sand a bit more if needed after the bowl is dry and warped.

As for natural-edge bowls, I have had some trouble keeping the bark on thin natural-edge Walnut bowls, because the bark can be very thick. If hardened with CA you might have good results. If the bark does come off, or get damaged, as often happens, just peel the rest off, and you'll still have a nice natural-edge bowl with nice sapwood contrastuing with the darker heartwood.

Safe spinning,

Brad Vietje

Thetford, VT

Re: Sapwood in design over time

Dave MacLuskie

>Thanks for the feedback all. I'm roughing out 2-3 a night and storing in shavings for now. I'll try a few thin ones in the mix also.