Questions: skews and gouges

Re: Questions: skews and gouges

Larry Marshall

>You haven't provided much information to go on. Clearly you need to figure out how to raise the rest as your tools should be above the centerline.

Have you picked up and read any basic book on turning? It sure helps. I recommend Richard Raffan's Turning Wood.

If you were to tell us something about how you were trying to use the tools (orientation, how presented, etc), whether they had been sharpened, what wood, rpm, lathe, etc. you were using maybe some insight could be provided by someone here.

Cheers --- Larry

Re: Questions: skews and gouges

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Though there is a cost to this, I would suggest picking up Alan Lacer's Skew Videos - they are fantastic.

For the most part with a skew, the tool rest should be well above center.

Remember the ABCs of the Skew

A= Angle - the cutting edge should be at about a 30-45 degree angle to the rotation of the wood.

B= Bevel - ALWAYS ride the bevel on the skew (OK the exception is when using the point down for v cuts). Lay the skew on the rotating wood with the cutting edge off the wood - raise the handle until the cutting edge just starts to cut - THEN STOP. Raising it higher will take you off the bevel.

C= Cut - The cut should take place at the bottom of the middle third of the cutting edge.

Unfortunately, you now know most all of what I know of the skew.

A fellow Skew Challenged Turner.

Mark

Re: Questions: skews and gouges

Ken Grunke

>Set the skew aside for now, and concentrate on using the gouge. You can do the majority of your turning with a properly ground spindle gouge or small bowl gouge--either one, made from round rod and ground with a swept-back bevel such as the Ellsworth grind.

You really need hands-on instruction, but keeping in mind the basic ABC rule may help--Anchor, Bevel, and Cut.

1.) Anchor the tool on the toolrest, away from the spinning wood, before you do anything else. Angle the tool so it's pointed in the direction you intend to cut.

2.) Bevel--advance the tool into the wood with the bevel rubbing, but pointed upwards so the cutting edge is above the cutting area.

3.) Cut--Lower the cutting edge (raise the handle end) until the edge starts cutting, then pull the tool's shank along the toolrest with your upper hand while at the same time pushing with the lower hand, which is down on the handle and close to your body.

Don't try to cut with both edges at either side of a gouge's tip at the same time--the gouge's flute should be facing away from vertical at about 10 o'clock if you are cutting towards the left (2 o'clock towards the right). Cut ONLY with the lower edge, from the tip on back and you must keep the upper edge away from the wood to avoid a catch.

For turning the end grain, set your toolrest so the gouge is level (horizontal) when the tip is at center, using the same technique--making sure to keep the gouge's upper edge out of the cut zone with the flute angled away from the wood.

Pretty basic instructions which hopefully will get you going and help avoid catches--but you need an experienced turner standing over your shoulder or at least a video to look at.

Nice job on the mallet, by the way, Mr. Woodturner.

Re: Questions: skews and gouges

Robert Lee

>use your parting tool, make 3 overlapping cuts.

Re: Questions: skews and gouges

Newbie

>Larry, the wood was oak. Diameter was 4" or so. More like 3.5" when the problems started. Speed.....don't know for sure but I would guess somewhere between 1200 and 1600 rpm. The top speed of the lathe is 2000 and I had it near that.

In terms of presentation, I tried all kinds of things. The thing that seemed to make the worst catches was putting the hollow ground portion againt the tool (okay so far) then slowly rotating the tool to bring in the cutting edge.

Also, starting towards the middle of the face caused big problems. I did what I needed to do by starting on the OD and making a chamfer, then working the chamfer back from outside to inside. But if I had been trying to make a bowl or cup it would have been a total loss.

learn to use the skew first *LINK*

Andy in Raleigh

>The skew leaves a much better surface than; it doesn't gouge, it cuts cleanly. You rarely need much else for spindle turning. It can catch easier than the gouges, but learning the gouge first will not make it easier to learn the skew later. I think the opposite is more likely. IMO, the best practice for learning the skew is to mount a short section of a green/wet branch between centers. About 2" in diameter and 1" long at most. The spur drive should not be in too tight, so if you catch it will just stop the wood from spinning. I like to make mushrooms out of branches. when doing it for practice, I didn't bother with parting them, but just made them stacked up like a totem pole. The link below is a good article on turning with the skew.


the skew is your friend

EDIT - make that 1' long, not 1"...

Andy in Raleigh

>

Re: learn to use the skew first

newbie

>Thanks! Great link~!

Re: Questions: skews and gouges

Pascal Oudet

>I'd add a 4th point: 1/3

when cutting with the skew, stay within the 1/3 zone: one third is the usable length of the edge, starting from the tip in contact with the wood (be it the heel or the toe).

look when you are using the skew: if your cutting point is moving further than 1/3 of the length away from the contact with the wood, your chances of catch increase greatly. if you stay with the 1/3 zone, you are safe. (I hope it's clear, I attach an image to illustrate this)

Pascal