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Chatoyance, is that right?

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Chatoyance, is that right?

#1

Chatoyance, is that right?

Don Henthorn

>I posted a little cup pic a few days ago asking advice on additional shaping and got some good answers. I did a little additional shaping and then figured that was enough. I applied a BLO today to enhance the grain, Can't say I liked the color change, but was struck by something I rarely see. After the oil treatment, when looked at from the side the upper cup part appeared much lighter than the lower cup part. I was disappointed with this difference in color and planned to sand much of the oil off after it has had time to dry. However, as I was looking at the cup I slowly tipped it away from me and behold the upper part of the cup became as dark as the bottom. The whole cup appears afflicted this way. Depending on how one is looking at it the color changes pretty dramatically. Now my question is regarding the likelyhood of this continuing to be the case after I apply a finish to it?

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

#2

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

John Veerkamp

>This is a highly prized effect that only some woods show. Osage Orange is particularly spectactular in this regard. This is like the tiger eye semi-precious stone. rotate the piece and it appears to change color . I love the results.

John ps chatoyance is correct

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

#3

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Don,

Yes, I think that most any good finish that you would have used would have produced this change of color with movement. Just a natural fact of the wood. Doing Segmented work, I see it all the time is a great many woods, like Cherry, Mahogany, Walnut, etc.

As to the darkening of the wood - if you want an oil like finish, w/o the color change, use Lacquer. Thin it about 50% Lacquer to 50% Thinner. Wipe it on. Keep wiping it on until it does not appear to be soaking in to the surface. Not take a rag soaked in Lacquer Thinner, and wipe the wood down to remove any Lacquer on the surface. Let it dry at least 24 hours, then go over it with 4X steelwool, then apply your favorite wax.

The grain will pop just as good as any oil finish, but you will not get the amber color change, and it will not darken with time (the wood will naturally age, but you will not have the darkening of the oil).

Mark

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

#4

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

Rob Lee

>Hi Don -

From the french word for "Cat" (chat - pronounced "SHA") - and refers to the same effect one sees in cat's eyes (or tigers, if you care to get that close).

Cheers -

Rob

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

#5

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

Don Henthorn

>Thanks to all of you for your considerate responses. Mark, I have really gotten away from oils for quite a while, but I have read so many posts in which the writers extolled the virtues of BLO in "popping" the grain, that I succumbed and tried it. Sure don't like it. Although the bowl is 1/8" to 5/32" inch thick, I am still going to let it dry for a week or two and then try to sand down beyond the oil and refinish with a clearer finish. I have been using blonde shellac a lot lately and like it for many of my small projects. I just may try some lacquer with this one.

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

#6

Re: Chatoyance, is that right?

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Oil is the univeral response to "Popping the Grain" for most anyone who works wood - because that is the way they have always done it. Unfortunately for many - technology moves on. Our woodworking forefathers would have used CA, Epoxy, Routers, Lacquers, etc, if they had been available. Just imagine, the Stanley #45 router was a High Tech solution in it's day.

I still use Oil finishes occasionally, but for the look, not for protection. As often as not now, I put lacquer over it several weeks later for protection.

Good Luck, Don.

Mark

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