Power sanding

Re: Power sanding

TDaniel

>Try replacing the rear bearing with a sealed bearing; the original bearing is only a shielded one. Cost is about $3 more than a standard bearing. Also, blow the drill out with compressed air often and don't get it hot. Since you have 2 I would alternate the drills often to give them cooling time (this is what I do).

TD

Re: Power sanding

Bill Luinetti

>Thanks, Terry. Do you recall what the specifics of that bearing is (are)? The Sioux manual provides a part number (which I assume to be a Sioux part ID), but little else.

I'm just about to box my second unit up and send it for repair (the first one took eight weeks to be returned), but if I can get a replacement bearing that fits, and satisfies the criteria that you suggested, I will keep it here, and do it my self.

Thanks for your hint..

Bill Luinetti

Re: Power sanding

Don Evans

>Terry:

I'd recommend DOUBLE sealed bearings as the term sealed my result in only one side of the bearing being sealed and the other side open.

Not only do double sealed bearings keep the dust out of the bearing but it keeps the lubricant in the bearing instead of it running out if it gets too warm and lowering it's viscosity.

Don

Re: Power sanding

Peter Teubel

>Every regular "sealed" bearing I've used (both for the Sioux/Milwaukee drills and bandsaw guides) *ARE* sealed on both sides, yet are not called "double selaed".

Re: Power sanding

Darryl Hansen

>Bill you can remove the case if you have one of those square "screw drivers". The bearing in question is the one near the brushes at the bask of the unit. That one and the one infront are the same. The one in front though runs is a pocket of grease. When you remove the rear bearing you must be careful but it can be done.

As Terry says blowing out the bearings frequently is a good idea. You can get the bearings from Boca Bearing. If you read them the markings on the bearing ring they will help you find a replacement. Last time I bought one they were around $10 for the sealed type. I can't remember the numbers but Boca will help you. They ship in an envelope and pay the postage. If you can't find the bearing let me know and I'll go back in my files and find the part number....Darryl

Sanding at slower speeds??

Russ

>When I hear of these problems I can predict that you are running the drill at full speed for sanding.

We can liken sanding at top speeds to spinning our wheels on pavement. There is a lot of noise, and smoke, but very little movement; and all we are doing is wearing out our tires.

SLOW DOWN. The advantage of slower sanding speeds is less heat because the sanding disc is cutting the wood rather than skating across the surface. With less heat, the mandrels and sanding discs last longer, and the drill will run for years without a bearing failure.

You will find that sanding is just as fast, maybe faster, because the medium is cutting rather than skating across the surface. And, the sanding dust is easier to collect because it isn't thrown all over the shop by the slower speed of the disc.

How slow?? I use a 1200 RPM angle drill, and typically run it at about 1/4 speed or less with a 2" sanding disc. When the lathe is also spinning, it is at 100-200 RPM for the typical bowl.

There is one problem - getting someone to try sanding slower. The conventional wisdom that sanding should be done at full speed is universal among woodturners.

Re: Power sanding

Don Evans

>I disagree. If they are sealed (not shielded) they ARE double sealed or some use the term 2 sealed which means double, if the one's you have are sealed on both sides.

By who's standard are you stating they are not called double sealed? Or are you stating there are no sealed bearings with only one side sealed?

One place where you are apt to find single sealed is in TEFC motors (if they are the originals).

In a hand drill however, the singled sealed aren't the best to use because of the air vents in side of drill. But, apparently we are dealing with a manufacturer who puts "open" bearings in their drills.

In 40 years of purchasing bearings and rebuilding equipment, I've never heard the term "regular" used.

In any even, I was mearly trying to save someone who may order these via mail supplier, and not knowing there is a different, the trouble.

Open, shielded, sealed, double shielded, double sealed are only a portion of types of raial bearings, there are many others. But you wouldn't want those in this application.

It's probably a fairly safe assumption that most suppliers (local one's) only stock double shield and double sealed because the double can be used anywhere the single sealed can and this reduces inventory.

Don

Re: Sanding at slower speeds??

Whit Ballantine

>Russ has a good point. Speed kills. When power sanding I run the lathe at 250 RPM (its slowest) and the drill at about 150 RPM (as slow as I can make it run). The drill is, incidently, a two year old $35 Dewalt variable speed bought on sale at Ace Hdwr (I consider it a consumable. I'm going to throw it away before too long when it dies). $150 to $165 for a Sioux is ridiculous, especially if you go through two in eight months.

Replacing/upgrading bearings shouldn't be necessary on a good tool.

On the facing page of Packards catalog from the Sioux stuff is a "Dual Action Air Sander." I have one of these guys, as well. Basically, I only use it on natural edge things and when I screw up the sanding on the lathe but it's invaluable then. Price - $150 plus $17 replaceable Velcro pad. Gobbles huge amounts of air. Thank God for a 60 gallon compressor. Works for me.

Whit

Re: Power sanding

Bill Luinetti

>Thanks for the detailed response, Darryl. I think that instead of sending the unit back to be repaired (in kind) I'll find a replacement bearing as you suggested.

Bill

Re: Sanding at slower speeds??

Bill Luinetti

>Thanks to Russ and Whit for your comments. I do have a tendency to run the Sioux at full tilt (1300 rpm) and the lathe at the lowest stable speed possible.

And, predictably, that generates a lot of heat and dust.

I WILL make it a point to slow it down...

Bill

Re: Sanding at slower speeds??

Kevin Gerstenecker

>Russ has a very good and valid point. I have the Sioux Angle Drill, and I use it for sanding bowls all the time. It never dawned on me to run this thing full speed when sanding.......I always have used the drill running very slow, for several reasons. It made sense to me that with the drill running slow, and the lathe rotating slow as well, I would get better "cut" with the sanding disc. Another thing I noticed is this: I use the new wave sanding discs and backing pad, in both 2" and 3" size. If you get these, or any velcro pad for that matter, too hot, it will melt the plastic velcro hooks and render the gripping power of the pad mostly useless. I "melted" a couple of backing pads until I figured out that heat was the culprit........and speed = heat. All you need to take the Sioux drill apart is a Torx screwdriver. The "innards" of the drill assembly are pretty simple, and I take mine apart once in the while and blow it out. I have lubed the bearings with Teflon Lube made for bearing applications. I think Russ is right.......run it SLOW, and take it apart and do a little PM on it occasionally, and it should give you years of service. Just my 2 cents worth, but it works for me!

Re: Power sanding

Don Henthorn

>As I have written I followed Mark Kauder's lead in adding a DC motor and converter to my little Jet 1014 to give variable speed. I have only turned small things so far, but I have found slowing the lathe way down speeds up the sanding considerable and you can see how the work is progressing with out stopping the lathe. I often burned hard walnut at the slowest speed my old lathe had. With the new lower speed I can get on the converted jet, I don't burn the walnut anymore.

Re: Sanding at slower speeds??

Dave Peebles Lyons, Ohio!

>Hello Russ

I have to disagree here,

I have tried many different speeds when Power sanding. I have settled on high speed on the drill motor (2500) and about 400 rpm on the lathe.

This has proved to be the best combo for me. I think if the tool work is good off the gouge, it shouldn't take but a few minutes to power sand a bowl to a nice finish.

I think that when turners are tearing up mandrels and sand paper trying to finish a bowl, they may need to look at what kind of finish they are getting off the tool.

I may be wrong... but it works for me. :)

Dave