Bowl Finish Question

Re: Bowl Finish Question

Anthony

>As far as I know,if the bowl is to be used all you should use is salad bowl finish,or a similar oil.As far as the bees wax,I've used it,and it will be some what tacky until it sets up,or you buff it in good on the lathe.

Re: Bowl Finish Question

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>Stan,

The wax will do nothing for the bowl but make it temporarily shine. The shine is short-lived because the wax comes off with little use. For food-use bowls, about all you need or can use is a renewable oil. Mineral oil works well. Some use the nut oils (walnut, almond, etc.) or proprietary finish like the Salad Bowl Finish which will dry and provide some shine, but care need be taken as some people have allergies to nuts and that will include a reaction to the oil from those nuts. I know a well known turner who is allergic to walnut wood and he must also stay away from the eating the nuts. Anaphlactic shock can be deadly.

Either way, it won't be long before your in-use bowl will need to be "freshened" with another coat of oil, and these are "hand-wash only" items.

Mark

-2=mail

Re: Bowl Finish Question

Sam Simpson

>Hi Y'all,

Stan, I'm afraid your bowl will remain gummy for a long long time.

Beeswax is softened by oils and especially by their thinning agents. (turps, paint thinner, etc.) Applying oil on top of beeswax is always going to cause this gummy effect, that will take an age to dry. It can be done the other way round, if the oil is allowed to cure well first. but as Anthony pointed out, you don't need the beeswax at all. Bowls in common use are going to need their finish refreshing from time to time, so simple coatings of salad bowl oil, as required, will do the job.

Regards Sam Simpson.

Re: Bowl Finish Question

Stan Campbell

>Thanks Guys

The reason I used Beeswax, is I saw a video on turning bowls and that is what they used. I believe it was Richard Raffin. I'll have to check my Salad bowl finish and see what it's made of. Thanks for the tip about Nut oils.

Stan

Columbus,OH

Re: Bowl Finish Question

Raymond Overman

>I think I read, and I can't remember who to attribute it to, but mineral oil may not be the best for food safe bowls. I think the reasoning was that you didn't want to coat something with a product your mother used to make you regular.

Just a thought.

Raymond Overman

http://www.overmanshop.com

Re: Double Benefit?

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>A bit of oil on the salad + a little on the bowl.

S'matter, Ray, got something against a little regularity?

|;-}}}}

Re: Bowl Finish Question

Ron

>I have that tape and he used Mineral oil first. Remember?

Ron

Try Walnut Oil

Jerry Hall

>I just came back from a Nick Todd seminar and he has changed over exclusively to walnut oil from your supermarket. Diamond is a common brand and is what he had. It is a nice looking, non sticky food safe finish that will not turn rancid, unlike other food oils. He has found that it polamerizes (sp?) eg. hardens by rubbing down on the lathe with friction heat, or in time on its own. It is a food and thus safe. The mineral oil will never harden he says and as observed above is not a food. Something to try!

Re: Bowl Finish Question

Stan Campbell

>No, Not Really. I guess I'll have to watch it again. I would have watched it before I did the finish, except a friend had borrowed it.

Until you mentioned it I did not know I had forgotten :-)

Stan

Columbus,OH