what's involved in turning red cedar?

Re: what's involved in turning red cedar?

Fog Tanner

>I turn a lot of endgrain pieces from aromatic cedar. I never have had any problems with the splitting that cedar is known for when I turn endgrain. Bowls are another story. I had one bowl explode twice (super glue job), and that was exciting. I have never turned aromatic cedar green, all my wood has been drying for 15 years or so. Dry, it is very brittle and I don't think I'll do any more face grain bowls. But, you may have better experience with it green, if so I would please share and I may try another facegrain bowl.

But is is great for tooth pick holders, pencil holders, small end grain bowls, certain boxes, and pens. I make a lot of these for gifts. My current finish of choice is Shellawax cream. I have used various oils and waxes, but like the friction polish and wax the best. When I make pens, I use some hot stuff or super glue - thin on the piece and then finish.

If you are going to turn a lot of this, you really need some sort of dust protection as you can get sensitized to the smell/dust over a period of time. I can't be around the shavings very long anymore, and a powered respirator is a must now. But, its such beautiful wood, good luck with your pieces.

Fog

Re: what's involved in turning red cedar?

Ruth

>Dick,

I've turned a number of end grain, natural edge bowls from aromatic red cedar. Turning them really thin and soaking them in oil (I use mineral oil) for a few days they look like the translucent Norfolk Island Pine bowls, only redder. I prefer turning it green but not too green as it has more a sap than regular moisture, not as bad as soft pine but a little sticky. Yes, it does have a tendency to crack but, so far, none of these thin ones I've done have cracked or warped.

Have fun

Ruth

Re: what's involved in turning red cedar?

Dave MacLuskie

>Do you think soaking in a BLO (diluted with mineral spirits or not) would accomplish the same thing? Did you put a finish over the bowl after soaking it?

I've turned a few cedar bowls (I have a ton of it) and the only issue I've heard is that lacquer doesn't work well as a finish because the natural cedar oils will soften it.

I've tried shellac, but I don't seem to have the knack of using shellac just yet (that's my flaw, not the finish). I like the way the amber shellac emphasize the reds of the cedar.

Re: what's involved in turning red cedar?

Glenn Hodges

>This is an easter arromatic cedar bowl that was finished with a mixture of polymerized tung oil, spar varnish, and turpentine, then Beal buffed.