wall thickness

Re: wall thickness

Barry Turner

>I've never been much of a fan of extremely thin bowls or vessels. For one thing, I'm not that good. I have seen bowls that had wall thicknesses down to 1/16" or maybe less. (Think potato chips.) Beyond being able to show all your friends that you have the skills necessary to produce such a creation, I can't think of much practical use. More important, I think, is uniform wall thickness. What's reasonable? I say 1/8" to 1/4". For a larger vessel or bowl 3/8" to 1/2". But, that's a matter of personal preference.

Re: wall thickness

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Depends! (as with all things)

I'd say it depends on the choice of wood, the intent of the piece, the desire to show off one's abilities or to appeal to a target audience.

I've done hollow forms with a few voids down to about 1/64" thickness, but it was to show off. Most of them are about 1/8". Vases? Depends on what it is for. I have a salad bowl posted presently that is probably 5/8".

Oh it all depends. No set rules as far as I can tell.

Re: wall thickness

Bill Hale, Woodspinner

>Most of my work is in the 3/8" range. Yes I can turn thin but so what. I find that most buyers want something that feels good and looks good. Most of the time if I have a thin piece the buyers will pick it up and quickly put it down. My primary product is usable bowls with about 20% display forms. Most of the display work is a little thicker and weighted to the bottom to provide better stability.

Good turning and be safe

Bill

Re: wall thickness(long)

Bob Hackett

>The answer is,the wall thickness should be consistant and appropriate to the form.

Thin walls will impress other turners but seem to scare off buyers.Most customers tell me that a light bowl seems too fragile to use.There is also the impression that more mass(where appropriate)means more value.

Some of the burl pieces I turn that have alot of voids need a thicker wall(3/8+) in order to stay together.The form on these pieces are mostly squat and look visually heavy and massive

Afew of the pieces with insect holes that are otherwise sound I turn to 1/16th or less so the holes will be pierced thru.These forms are uplifted and look like they can float away.

In each case the wall thickness/weight of the piece is appropriate to the visual impact of the piece.

I finish turned a piece of birdseye maple recently that had some large eyes and excellent curl thru it.It also had two bark inclusions running parallel to the grain.This rough (with 3 inch thick walls due to the inclusions) was soaked with CA at the bark and had sat on the shelf for 6+ years before I felt it has time to return it to the lathe.Thinking the glue would hold it I turned a short,squat closed form and was originally going to hollow to about 1/4 thick wall.

When I began to work on the inside I noticed the eyes looked like bubbles rising thru water in the side grain.If I hollowed as I had planned I would lose that figure.The piece ended up having 2"+ wall thickness and was VERY heavy both visually and weight wise(they don`t call it rock maple for nothing).It was a first for me and I figured if it didn`t sell at the gallery I could always just hollow it and sacrifice the figure I was so fond of.It lasted 3 days at almost twice the price of my utility bowls.

Just when you think you`ve got it all figured out,along comes another curve you never saw coming.

Mainely,Bob

Beauty is in the eyes ...

Fred in NC

>of the person shelling out the money !!

hehe !

Re: wall thickness

DWFII

>This is a very interesting thread!

I was kind of leaning towards the opinion that (up to a point) thinner was better, simply because it is more refined. Then too, except for the obvious--salad bowls, etc.--most hollow vessels end up being display pieces rather than utility pieces. So, again my, admittedly amateur, first impression is that thinner is more "artistic."

But I am hearing some ideas that make me kind of doubt that intitial assessment.

I wonder if some of you could post photos of formes that would be appropriate for a thick wall and formes that are more appropriate for thin walls.

Many thanks...

DWFII

Re: wall thickness(long)

Ron in Drums PA

>Did you take a picture that you can share with us?

Re: wall thickness(long)

Bob Hackett

>As soon as the person who was working the gallery comes back from traveling I plan to track it down(hopefully it was a local person who bought it)and take a picture of it.I thought it would be around for a while so the digital photo/webmaster guru at the gallery didn`t get a pic of it.

Come to think of it you can see some of my work at www.saltrivergallery.com,just click on owners then click on my name.

Mainely,Bob