Wire Brush Technique

Re: Wire Brush Technique

Russ

>I can only give you my perspective on using a wire brush on wood. There are too many variables for a difinitive answer to your questions.

The size of the wire, the material, stiffness, all relate to the effect you want, how much wood you want to remove, and how smooth a surface you want to leave behind. There are infinite possibilities between the limits of the soft brass to a very still steel wire brush, and

whether the brush is hand-powered or attached to an electric motor; and then we can add the variable of the wood that can vary from soft pine to Oak and Ash or harder.

My advise is to pick a piece of wood, select a wire brush, and give it a try. A good starting point is going to the hardware store and getting one of those steel wire brushes with the long handle. Hold it against a spinning piece of wood, and go on from there.

Be aware that metals will leave a color on light colored wood, and you may have to use a strong color on the wood after using the wire brush.

Unless we are going to remove enough wood to get below all existing surface texture, we should never expect to get away with a bad wood surface, just because we are going to do something to it. I have seen too many otherwise nice pieces that had been worked over with wire brushes and other texturing, but the torn grain and tool marks were still visible.

Whether the lathe is running or not depends on whether you want the brushing marks to go around the piece or remove the soft wood from between the grain.

Re: Wire Brush Technique

Bob Hackett

>I have had good luck with both soft/fine wire brushes and those nylon looking sanding brushes.

I generally sand some before brushing and then follow the growth rings with the brush with the lathe off.This works well with ring porous woods like ash and oak.If you want a crisp transition from a smooth to a brushed surface then you need to plan ahead and brush the surface you want to texture and then turn up to it afterward.

You mentioned brushing after scorching,this works very well on ash and really highlights the growth rings.I`ve been ebonizing after brushing and sanding to even out the tone and am just starting to play with burnishing the wood instead of sanding after ebonizing.Look at some of Ellsworth`s scorched pieces to see the burnished finish I`m shooting for.

The only thing I use the heavier brushes for is to remove punky wood,it works like sand blasting but leaves no abrasive behind.The heavy brushes make the end grain texture look right but the side grain looks ragged to my eye so I stay with the softer brushes.

Like most texturing it just takes playing around with it till you get something you like.If you find a way to make the heavy brushes work on cherry or hard maple let me know.

Hope this has been some help.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Wire Brush Technique

JamieDonaldson

>I also mount a wire brush in a drill chuck for a more random texture than can be achieved with a hand held brush. Don't run the lathe so fast that the brush skips from spot to spot and the texture will be more uniform.

Re: Wire Brush Technique

John Lucas

>I've tried several techniques. A soft brass brush gives one look and a hard steel another. Try a test piece. I also use a fairly stiff brush in the drill press to really abrade the piece. you can almost carve with it if you want. I just went to the hardware and bought several small drill mounted wire brushes and tried them. They are pretty cheap and all work differently. You can sharpen them by running the wheel backwards and touching it with a course stone. That puts a burr on the wire and it cuts differently than when it's new. That's from John Jordan. I'm not that smart.

If you use a drill chuck in the lathe be aware that the vibrations can cause it to come loose. Thats the reason I use the drill press instead of the lathe.

Re: Wire Brush Technique

Duane C.Leach

>Hi Jennifer.

Like the others said .It works best on pours grain wood, but will work on most woods. I use a 3 1/2" to 4" coarse brush ina drill, both hands on drill for control, with lathe off and spindel locked. Don't try air die grinders they go to fast and through wires at you. The drill I use only goes about 800 rpm. What I like to do is make the scratches left by the wire look like they are all going the same direction. Try to go with the grain as much as posible. Other wise it lifts the fiber and pulls them out just like cutting against the grain. Plane ahead, once you are through with wire brush you should cut through the scratches at the edge and leave a smoth surface for good contrast, maybe around the mouth. I have not tried scoruching, to many bad memories. Its best to leave a sleeping dog lay.

Remember; talent does what it can;

genius does what it must.

I just wish I had either

Power brush safety

Phil Joines, Krum, Tx

>NEVER exceed the speed rating on a wire wheel. The wire will be throne out with plenty of force to penetrate both jeans and skin. If you want to use a grinder type of power source use a buffer instead, they have lower RPM.

Use both goggles and a face shield. The eye you save may be your own.

Re: Power brush safety

John Lucas

>What phil said and 10 more. The wires get in your clothing and will definitely stick in your eyes. After wire brushing one day I sat down at the computer and felt a stick. I pulled a wire out of my butt. I don't know how it got there but it was definitely from the wire wheel. I find them laying all over the shop after I've used a wheel a while.

We haven't talked about finishing. I use Krylon Fixatif to spray brushed wood. It leaves it very natural. I've also dabbed on other finishes with a cotton rag. Paper towels will leave lint in the wire brush area.

Re: Wire Brush Technique

Bill Hale, Woodspinner

>You can also use a high speed grinder with a course sanding disk. Run the lathe at a fairly high speed and use a light touch. Doing this you can get curved lines.

A MUST ! BE SURE TO KEEP THE GRINDER ROTATED SO YOU ARE ONLY WORKING ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CUTTING MATERIAL.

Try different things on waste or on bowls you are roughing out. Experimentation is how we learn new things.

Good turning and be safe

Bill

Thank you so much!

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Thanks everybody for the great insight....It sounds like experimentation is the name of the game here. I'm looking forward to my days off and locking the shop door behind me!

Thanks again,

Jennifer