Mylands Sanding Sealer

Re: Mylands Sanding Sealer

YoYoSpin

>Jim,

No...Sanding Sealer dries fast. If you're going to use it, you'll have to move quickly.

best regards,

Ed D.

Re: Mylands Sanding Sealer

Mike Schwing from Md.

>I use it, and lots and lots of it. I apply it with the work stationary, very thinly, and then when it is dry turn the lathe on and use a dry, clean cloth to remove the application lines. Alternatively, a handful of maple shavings works great and produces a very high, glosslike sheen. I do this two or three times to find the finish I'm looking for. Then it goes to the buffing wheel.

I have tried to use it wet/lathe on with not so great results.

I have some newly purchased Mylands lacquer I'm going to try over it soon. Will post results.

Re: Mylands Sanding Sealer

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ont

>Hi Ed,

Thanks! Yeah, Guess so eh! It was like almost in a second, so I sanded it off and then tried to reapply it, same thing..sanded again athen went really fast, one pass...waited a few and then applied the polish.

Take care,

Jim

Re: Mylands Sanding Sealer

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ont

>Thanks Mike,

That makes sense, apply it then burnish the finish then the friction polish...looks better than shop cloth under friction polish I'll bet!!

take care,

Jim

Re: Mylands Sanding Sealer

Doug Trembath

>Jim, it's a bit easier if you work some oil into the regimen. It's French polishing, using a pad filled with lacquer thinner, and a few drops of oil, like BLO, for example, sprinkled on the pad. Wipe a lightly thinned coat on the spindle first, with a paper towl, but work quickly.

Then use the pad to even out the finish. The key is to use the oil to break the friction and allow you to level it. Funny thing, I was doing just that a few minutes ago in the shop on a wall hanging.

I think Russ may have an article on it, and lately one in FWW.

Give it a try. If you screw up, you can just wipe it off and redo it, worst case.

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

Authoritative Mylands application response..>>

RonZ

>..>> I knew that would get your attention.

Ed is right, apply it fast.

I sell the stuff so while everyone is privy to the information written on the bottles, I have to read them. =o)

Rarely if ever apply the sanding sealer while the lathe is moving. If I do, my electronic lathe is at 30 rpm. For medium to big items, always apply while off and just rotate the piece by hand. Mike, you're right in saying to apply a very thin layer, It dries fast and clumps up. You're also right in letting it dry a little before turning on the lathe to let it dry more. If you put a little to much in lets say a groove, you get a wonderful artistic result. The sealer sprays out and dries in mid air creating a star effect around the piece. Using a cloth to remove the lines doesn't help much. I always cut back with 0000 steel wool. Two coats is usually all you'll need before going on to use your finishing coat. There is no need to burninsh at this stage. I use Mylands friction polish for small or decorative items and Mylands melamine for larger pieces or pieces that need water resistance.

To apply friction polish, I apply at slow or medium speed to avoid splashing and turn up to high speed. and rub back and forth over the piece. If you see lines, ad a drop to the cloth and apply more. This will dissolve the lines and then add more to the finish. Add a few more drops and rub over the piece quickly while the lathe is running at or close to high speed. As you repeat this process you are now building the finish. This is also why they add 'high build' to their friction polish name. If you started with a clean cloth, you will now see a build on your cloth. This is the same build on your piece. 3-4 quick coats and you will have an unmatched mirror finish on your work. Then follow up by burnishing usuing Russ's brown paper method and then apply caranuba stick wax. Not only have I used this finish on pieces as large as an 8" mohagany bowl, I have well surpassed the actual world class woodturner that introduced me to the stuff. If done right, there is no need to buff after the above finish either.

Let me know if you need help on how to apply the Mylands melamine laquer.

Re: Authoritative Mylands application response..>>

Sue McLam, Orange, VT

>RonZ,

Yes, please explain how to apply the melamine laquer. I tried it on a 14" platter and couldn't get an even finish wiping it on with a rag so I ended up sanding it all of and using a different finish.

Sue

I 2nd that request

Mike Schwing from Md.

>But so I don't have to go through the same thing.

Mylands application of melamine&woodfinishing oil

RonZ

>Mylands melamine laquer

You apply thin coats while the lathe is off and cut back each coat with 0000 steel wool. This is how you build melamine coats and I usually find three is enough, leaving the last coat not cut back with steel wool. I use Liberon steel wool which I find to be the finest. My friends laughed at me when they saw my 6kg roll of steel wool [I use it all the time] but changed their tune when they saw the quality of my finish. To quote Terry Martin of Australia, sandpaper and wire wool [steel wool] should be used like toilet paper, only once. =o)

Once you have that finish, you can leave it as is for a satin finish. You can cut back again with 0000 steel wool or another real fine abrasive that is 600 or greater for a matt finish. For a semi gloss finish you can apply Mylands [or Bisons] carnauba/beeswax paste with 0000 steel wool. For a gloss finish use the beal method.

A quick finish by Chris Stott.

He uses a thinned downed Mylands sanding sealer [melamine based] and applies it with a brush and wipes and burnishes it with the lathe running with what he calls a kitchen paper, paper towel in US English. He then finishes up with the carnauba/beeswax paste applied with 0000 steel wool and buffed with kitchen paper.

Mylands wood finishing oil.

I like this for the bowls that I make and don't have to rush out. This oil is a tung based oil with driers. This is superior to danish oil which is mostly vegetable oil. It will leave a slightly darker amber like finish. I liberally apply the 1st coat and wait about 5 minutes before wiping off the excess, more time if you're in a colder climate or less time in hotter climates like two minutes here in Israel. I also use disposable rubber gloves as this is sticky. Wait 4 hours and then cut back with, you guessed it, 0000 steel wool. I use three coats while waiting 4 hours between coats and cutting back with 0000 steel wool. For a semi gloss finish, use the carnauba/beeswax paste applied with 0000 steel wool. For a glossy finish, use the beal system.

One reason why I really like these finishes instead of regular laquer or varnish is that they bring out and displays the depth of the grain beautifully giving it an almost 3d quality.

I hope that helped.

Re: Mylands application of melamine&woodfinishing

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Thanks Ron. How long does the lacquer need to dry before rubbing it with the wool? The sanding sealer only takes a few minutes.

Re: Mylands application of melamine&woodfinishing

RonZ

>They are both melamine/toluene based so it's also about a minute or two. The wax paste is also toluene based so the results are fast. I do production work and time along with quality is important.

Re: Mylands application of melamine&woodfinishing

Jim Shaver, Oakville Ontario

>Thanks Ron,

I am familiar with the Sanding sealer and the friction polish from Mylands, but what is the Mylands melamine laquer, it's hard to find a supplier here in Canada for this stuff so where can I get it in the US? Also US suppliers will not ship this to me becasue of the volitile contents and the fire danger of air transport.

Thanks,

Jim

Re: Mylands application of melamine&woodfinishing *LINK*

RonZ

>Here's a link to their site. They might let you know who sells it in Canada. In the US there is Craft Supplies, Packard, and Woodcraft. They should be able to ship it to you via surface mail but it will take longer.

It is basically a water and alcohol resistant finish that dries fast for work on the lathe.


Mylands

Now you know why I use "Deft"

Russ

>

I'm not deft at using Deft and besides..>>

RonZ

>..>> I can't get it here. I'm not sure what it even is. With that said, It takes me about one to two minutes to get the above described finish from sanding sealer to carnauba wax buffed and it's ready to use, no waiting/drying time.

Re: Authoritative Mylands application response..>>

Ron

>I purchased a can of Mylands Melamine Lacquer and made such a mess of the first thing I tried it on it sets on the shelf now. I for one could use some instruction.

Ron