Removing Wax from Burl Cap

Re: Removing Wax from Burl Cap *LINK*

joaz hill

>Wow that's a lot of wax!! I take my caps to the car wash and spray at high pressure.. Since your caps on the lathe, why not go ahead and turn until you get down to what you want to leave and then pressure wash??

It works for me. Good luck


http://www.maine-web.com/woodturning

Re: Removing Wax from Burl Cap

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>Put a pan under it, then put your blow-drier on "high" and melt most all of it off. You will likely have a very thin film left that can usually be desolved/removed with Naptha "scrubbed" in and rinsed off with a long bristled brush to get into the nooks and crannies.

Mark

Easy.....

Thomas Skaggs, Foothills of Mount Level

>I say do nothing and call it a "wax finish".

Please mail me $10 for this expert advice.

You're welcome.

Tommy ;-)

Re: Removing Wax from Burl Cap

Russ

>Do what Mark just said.

Then use an oil/varnish finish on it. Add a little Naptha to the finish for deeper penetration, and dont worry about any residual wax. It will become part of the finish.

May not be wax....

TDaniel

>I know some wood dealers that use thinned white glue to seal burls. I sawed a bunch of burls for a dealer and he mixed half water and half white glue and coated the burls as soon as I sawed them. He said this allowed potential buyers to see the wood better and it pretty much stops the drying rather than just slowing it down.

Re: May not be wax....

Andrew Hilton

>"...and it pretty much stops the drying rather than just slowing it down."

That should be the other way around. I use a PVA (the white glue and most "yellow" or carpenter glues) solution for my wood products that I want to slow down the moisture loss but not slow it down so much that I have to wait 10 years to see any money from it. For exceptional woods; woods that are easily cracked, etc.; and for woods that I don't care how long it takes to dry them, I use a wax emulsion (Anchorseal is what most folks are familiar with in that category).

The PVA is far more cost effective as well. The difference between the two sealers as far as cost and most especially on moisture loss on a commercial scale is dramatic. And that translates into $.

There are studies in the trade that confirm this in the laboratory as well. I think there's an article based on a study from the FPL (Forest Products Laboratory) with something about this as well.

Thanks everybody!

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Thanks for all the tips. Much appreciated....I think I'll try the hair dryer and drip pan and then apply Naptha.

Jen : )

It worked perfectly!

Jennifer@Indy.USA

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