sorby spindlemaster

Re: sorby spindlemaster

Russ

>Think of the Spindlemaster as being a spindle gouge without the flute, not as anything to do with a skew chisel. Of course it is easier to use than a skew, but so is a spindle gouge.

The Skewchigouge is a similar tool, except that it is made from round stock that is ground down to a flat across the tip. At the cutting tip, the tools are the same. Both tools come with a bevel angle that is 30-degrees to the flat of the tip. That is too sharp an angle for most folks, and it needs to be ground to a thicker 45-degree angle to tame the tool for them.

My advice is to get a good 1/2" spindle gouge, learn to use it, and it will serve you well.

Re: sorby spindlemaster

Tim Grenville-Cleave

>I have used the Spindlemasters for the past year or so and have found the following points.

1) Used as a Skew it is much more forgiving but you can still get the most monumental dig-in if not carefull.

2) used as a gouge, it again is easier to start with but is not as flexible as a proper gouge.

All that said it is and always will be a 'compromise' tool. However I still reach for mine on a regular basis if the work in hand is not too complex, and I would not be without them.

Just my tuppance worth

Tim GC

Re: sorby spindlemaster

Tom in Red Deer

>I have to agree with all the other comments in regards to the spindlemaster. I have the small one and use it for everything from roughing to very fine detail finishing. Some days I will use it for 4 or 5 hours straight.

Having said that, it is like any other chisel. It takes a lot of time to get used to. I had some horrendous wrecks in the process and in fact put it back in a drawer for two months.

Now, after lots of use it is one of my favourites. So much so that I made a 1/4" version for tiny work.

Tom In Red Deer

Re: sorby spindlemaster

Ron in Drums PA

>I have a 1" spindlemaster which I picked up from Ebay for $25. I've only used it 3 times so far.

Here are my opinions

A skew does a much better for spindle turning.

Also, I wish this tool was a bit thicker.

What I really like about the spindlemaster is the ease of hollowing out end grain such as in a box or a goblet. It really does a great job on the transition from the bottom to the sides. If I want to change the radius of the curve on the transition all I need to do is tilt the spindlemaster a little until I get the angle I want. This is easily accomplished because of the curved portion that lays on the tool rest.

Truthfully, I think it was worth the $25 I paid for it, But I don't think I'd pay $60 for it.

Re: sorby spindlemaster

RonZ

>I have to agree with Russ [won't be the first time, won't be the last] Get a spindle gouge, I reccomend with a long grind and you're in business. I have Sorby's spindle masters and while I can use a spindle gouge and skew well, I have a hard time with the spindlemasters. Now it only gets used when my son wants to make pens.

Re: sorby spindlemaster

Herman

>Thanks all for your replies. The intended purpose of this tool for me is to form beads on windsor chair legs, especially that part on a baluster leg that goes from the large bulbous swelling on the vase, down into the v notch just above the 'reel', and also for the large bead which sits right on top of the tapered part of the leg. That's always where I get a catch. Planing cuts or shallow cuts are not a problem, just that deep one.

Herman

Re: sorby spindlemaster

Phil Winn

>I find it difficult to use...

Phil