"squaring" Pen blanks

Re: "squaring" Pen blanks

Stuart Johnson

>Phil, I'm by no means a "pro".

1. What am I doing wrong, suggestions?

This could be a combination of your drill speed, how square your drill table is, as well as just how badly warped is the blank. My only real suggestion is, if the hole is so far off center you can't use it for larger pens then save it for a slimline.

2. What tool to use?

I wouldn't waste time trying to make the blank square. Just drill as near center as possible.

3. Is there a tool with a disc sander and belt sander in one?

Yes, I think just about all of the companies, Jet, Delta, Grizzly have a combination machine. Price will depend on quality and mfg. reputation.

4. Any suggestions for a tool which is very affordable?

Price will depend on quality and mfg. reputation.

I hope this helps a little.

Re: Have you tried drilling them on the lathe?

Al Crandall

>I'd try putting the drill chuck and drill bit in the headstock of the lathe and a live or dead center in the tailstock. Layout the center on each end of the blank and push an awl into the wood to help the drill find its mark when starting. Mount the piece between these "centers", grasp the blank with one hand, turn on the lathe with the other hand, and then advance the wood onto the drill by turning the tailstock handwheel. Drill half way into the piece, flip it end for end, and drill the other half from the other end. The shorter the hole you drill, the less it will "run" off center.

Re: "squaring" Pen blanks

Fog Tanner

>You can cut the piece into two, place it between centers and turn it into a cylinder. Once that is done you can chuck it on your lathe and drill it. I have the #1 jaws for my Stronghold that will hold a pen blank. After I drill and glue in the tube, I square the ends on my table saw. You can use any disk sander. I have a 10" disk for my table/radial arm saws. I made a "V" block from a 2x4 that is sqaure to my miter and the sanding disk. The V block is about 1/4" away from the disk. Place the blank into the V block and slide the blank into the disk. Sand until it reaches the tube.

There is a tool that will fit on a belt/disk sander, that has a rod that you square to the disk face. You place the blank on the rod and slide into the disk. But you have to have a rod for each size you are making. And right now I have three or four different size tubes, so I stay with the V block on the table saw. Although I may make a V block for my belt sander.

The belt sander is a Delta 4" belt, but Jet and others have basicly the same thing. You just have to judge for yourself as to the quality and if they'll stand behind their "fine" piece of machinery. I also have several barrel trimmers. I have one (7mm) mounted into a handle. The others I use on either the drill press or lathe. The sanding seems to work quicker.

I don't think you will find a wrong way, as everyone has a way that works for them. Your only problem is finding that way that works for you...good luck.

Fog

Re: "squaring" Pen blanks

Greg in NC

>Phil,

I buy many stabilized blanks from Arizona Silhouette, and yes, sometimes they are crooked, but I've never had a problem using them. That helps to remove most (sometimes all) of the curve. Depending on how you're drilling, you should be able to 'eyeball' your blank to vertical on both planes so you're drilling as closely to center as possible. Simply manipulate the blank until it looks right. Holding the tube up to the blank while aligning it helps. I use quite a bit of antler, and it can be REALLY crooked, but if you hold the tube up to the blank when getting ready to drill, you should be able to get it very close. If that still doesn't do it, then cut the blanks close to size, then chuck them on your lathe between centers, and rough them down until you get them nearly round. You can leave some of it rough in order to more easily hold the blank while drilling.

I think you had also asked in another thread if stabilzed blanks are worth it. Sometimes yes, sometimes not. What I enjoy about getting blanks from Bill B with Arizona Silhouette is that he will generally send you premium blanks, so you usually get extremely highly figured, #1 blanks. Definitely not all blanks need to be (or even can be) stabilized. Thin CA does wonders on some woods that are punky or highly porous.