>The best hollowing video that I know of is the original Ellsworth- he is the master. His tools and similar versions can be made, and the new John Jordan specials are all you will really need until you really get carried away with the process. Then you will get into the Stewart and Jamison systems, boring bars, lasers, etc!
>It takes some practice, but if I can learn it without a video anyone can. The Kelton hollowing rig I bought was supposed to have a video with it, but it did not. I found more than enough stuff on the web about the hollowing process to get me going. Maybe try that first, give the hollowing a shot or two and then if needed buy the vid? Might save some money.
I'm not saying there is no value to them and they'll undoubtedly shorten your learning curve, but they're not really necessary, IMO.
BTW, those vessels on the turning gallery shot this week were all made by self taught, no video watching little old me.
I have two responses, and one of them is more in Jamie's camp than Mike's.
1. If you buy a stabilized boring system, like the Kelton or Jamieson rigs, you can make beautiful hollow forms with practice, and some basic understanding of the process. Mike's excellent work is testimony to that fact.
2. If you go the Ellsworth route -- hollowing with hand-held tools --I think you can make nice pieces without a class or video, but I don't recommend it !
I started in hollow forms a la Ellsworth, and armed with just enough information to do some real damage to the tendons of my right elbow. Tendonitis, or tennis elbow, is no laughing matter. I was able to make some lovely h.f.'s that sold well, but for about 6 months I cringed every time I picked up a gallon of milk, opened a door, or rough turned a bowl. I then got a hollowing rig, but didn't use it much because I couldn't make vessels with tiny openings with it until I got smaller boring bars and adapters made.
Then I found a copy of the Elsworth video, and learned some fundamentals of tool angle, tool placement inside the vessel, and how to hollow and gain tool control with hand-held tools. I've made many hollow forms since then, and I no longer have any residual pain in the right arm. I only use the boring rig for larger pieces, as I like the control and the feel of making hollow forms by hand.
By learning to turn hollow forms by hand you can make thin walled vessels with very small openings, and with a little coaching, or by studying videos by David Ellsworth, John Jordan, and others, you can spend a lot less on tools than on the hollowing rig.
Most turning clubs have video collections for members to use, and if you like the video, you can buy it and the tools to support the turner on the tape, and have it as a permenant reference.
If you do decide to turn hollow forms by hand, don't do whatI did ! The key is to keep the cutting tip angled downward by 5 - 10 degrees, but never let the tool cut below center. Above center is fine, as long at the cutter isn't angled upward to get there (though it's fine if the shaft is angled upward, if the tip is angled downward). Using a scraping tool inside hollow forms is just like using a scraper on the inside of a bowl: angle the tool down a little, and keep the cutting edge above center at all times. Below center is asking for trouble !
>I like the Ellsworth video for general hollow turning, especially for side grain, and the JOhn Jordan video for end grain. Either video addresses both grain orientations but they each add their own slant. That said, neither is necessary. Make a set of tools, grab some fire wood and go for it. At the worst you can try to match some of my beautiful kindling. Whatever way you go, practice and mistakes are normal.