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Aarrgh....

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Aarrgh....

#1

Aarrgh....

Mike Schwing from Md.

>You know how when you whittle away at the little nub in the bottom sometimes if you didn't adjust the height for it, the tool will move to the other side and "wrap around" and bang down on the tool rest? Usually no big deal unless you didn't tighten down the tool rest properly. It dropped and what you see is what I got. Haven't had this happen in, well...ever actually! Won't be the last, but probably the last time for this particular reason. Should have drilled the hole a bit deeper to start.

All I had left to do was make it a little thinner and clean up the sides. No biggie.

No comment required!


img

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#2

Been There But

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>Didn't do that . . .

You might consider a bit of reconstruction with black epoxy.

Mark

-2=mail

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#3

Re: Aarrgh....

Eaglesc

>Well since it's required,

No comment!

(ouch)

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#4

Preventative measures

Bob Hackett

>A collar on the toolrest post will keep that from happening.It also keeps the height set when you just want to turn the toolrest.

MB

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#5

Re: been there done that

Phil Lieberman

>Not sure how many hours into a nice turning when it ends up in the wood burning stove!

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#6

Dick Hines

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Dick Hines

>Mike, the next time you egt one of those nubs use the tool with the sharpest bend and run you lathe in reverse. I know you have the Kelton system and a PM 3520. Just turn enough RPM's to cut the nub. Works for me.

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#7

Mounting questions...

Mike Rubes, Apex, NC

>Hi Mike,

Just curious how you have that blank mounted. Is there a face plate back there? A chuck? If that one hadn't self destructed, what's your preferred method for removing a piece from the lathe? Do you turn them green and then let them dry or is it straight from green to finish?

For a while you were turning lots of apple. Ever get any big enough for some hollow forms like that?

Thanks for the pic. Sorry this one ended up in the "learning" pile :)

Mike

Never enough shop time in Apex, NC!!!

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#8

Re: Mounting questions...

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Hi Mike. That one was first turned round between centers, and a tenon was formed that then went into the large Supernova jaws. I have indexed the jaws with 3 little punches on one of them, and I make identical marks that correspond to where it was mounted on the workpiece. I turn the blanks rough green and wax them. When they dry, I don't normally find the need to true the tenons up, but if I line the dots up again, the blank runs pretty true.

I prefer to turn with the tenon/chuck method as face plate screws sometimes go too far, and I usually work with limited wood. Plus, the leftover tenons make great glue blocks for other work.

I tend to use faceplates for the first mounting of bowl blanks, but not for hollow forms.

My method for parting them off is nothing out of the ordinary. If they'll hold a vacuum I reverse them on the vac chuck. If they're too delicate to reverse chuck without vac, I'll turn them as far as I can and use a razor saw to part them, then finish by hand.

And yup, I have a lot of apple drying. Those forms barely resemble what they looked like turned green. Nothing warps like apple.

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#9

Re: Aarrgh.... *LINK*

RevDoug

>I hate it when that happens. Makes me feel much better to know that someone else makes the same kind of mistakes I find myself making. Just be glad it doesn't happen too often.

Turn 'em round,

RevDoug


Wood Spun Round

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#10

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RonZ

>Wow! A design oppertunity! =o)

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.