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Which sharpening system

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Which sharpening system

#1

Which sharpening system

Jack Diemer

>I am trying to determine which sharpening system to go with to sharpen my lathe tools. I know that I am not very good at doing it by hand, and I can't afford or justify the Tormek. I am even having a hard time justifying the oneway, because once you get all the jigs for it, it can cost nearly $200. I am intrigued by the Robert Sorby Deluxe sharpening system, but I can't find any reviews on the internet. Has anyone used the Sorby system and what other options are there for me.

Re: Which sharpening system

#2

Re: Which sharpening system

Peter Teubel

>I have used the Sorby jig at a friend's shop and don't like it at all. I convinced him to get a Wolverine setup and he's VERY happy with it. The Wolverine it not that expensive. You only need the basic jig and the Varigrind (if you want to do fingernail gouges). I've used the skew jig but promptly returned it. I can do just as good using the flat rest.

Re: Which sharpening system

#3

Re: Which sharpening system

Eaglesc

>I have see a wooden version of the Wolverine that was beautiful.

I then saw one mad from unistrut.Slick, douwn and dirty worked.

Here's another version


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Re: Which sharpening system

#4

Re: Which sharpening system

Anthony

>If not the homemade way I suggest a Wolverine system.When I got into turning.which is only about a year,it was the one suggested to me,and i've never regreted it one bit.

Re: Which sharpening system

#5

Re: Which sharpening system

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>Jack, the least expensive but well functioning sharpening system depends a little on what you already have on hand.

If you already have a decent dry grinder and wheels (i.e, 6 inch or larger, aluminum oxide wheels), then one of the aftermarket or shop made jigging systems are a reasonable route to moderately priced sharpening system. I prefer the Woodcut TruGrind or Kelton Sharpening System (particularly the 2nd generation version which will soon be out) and I have discussed both of these briefly here before, and will be doing a full comparative review in a couple of months. The TruGrind is particularly versatile and compact in a single device, the Kelton is the most sturdy and has the best expansion capabilities I've found on any dry sharpening system.

If you already have a vertical belt sander, then this can offer an excellent foundation for a sharpening system through the addition a few shop made and adapted commercial jigs. A lot of experienced turners swear by such a system, and it is particularly easy and inexpensive to change between grit ranges but just substituting belts.

One of the most inexpensive systems I have seen has been to use sanding disks mounted to the lathe via a board and faceplate. Personally, I'm not fond of this idea as it ties up ones lathe, strews grit all around, and is difficult to set up jigging system for. Still, in a pinch, you can accomplish this for almost nothing more than the cost of a sanding disk.

But you may not need to count out the Tormek. If one adds up the cost of a new grinder, new wheels, and one of the jigging systems (Wolverine, TruGrind, Kelton) and compare it to the cost of a Tormek fitted only with the components one really needs for turning, the price is not necessarily as different as one might expect. What one needs for turning is the basic Tormek, the Tormek Multijig, the Tormek Univeral Gouge Jig, the Tormek Horizontal table, and an generic flat face T-handle diamond dresser. You don't need profile honing wheels, or even the stone dresser for woodturning, not many of the other things often included with their Woodturners package.

If you don't have anything right now, the most inexpensive system I can think of, that would be adequate for a variety of uses, is the cheap 6 inch Delta Grinder, a T-handle diamond dresser, a set of inexpensive white wheels and the TruGrind jig. Obviously there are a lot of steps up from there, but I have a system fitted up like this for the sharpening comparisons (deliberately to see how low one could go in price for a full function set up) and while not perfect, it really performs the necessary functions pretty well.

Re: Which sharpening system

#6

Re: Which sharpening system *LINK*

Guest

>It's not for everyone but it's cheap, easy, quick, versatile and portable. This is what I use most of the time in my own shops but I teach woodturning classes on everything from this to just oil stones/slipstones on up to belt sanders, dry grinders and the wet grinders. All with or without jigs.

The jigs make it easier (the Wolverine being the most popular for dry grinders) to start out and to overcome some of the deficiencies of the machines.

Personally, I feel that sharpening and turning skills (unlike sharpening a planer blade and using a planer) go hand in hand. The better you become at one, the better you become at the other. It's a shame to cut off one half of the skill and learning experience with use of a jig. But that's what many people want and I teach it.


A Sharpening/Honing Disk

Re: Which sharpening system

#7

Good advice here.......

TDaniel

>I also did as Lyn suggested: I tried to see how cheap a system I could come up with that was adequate; other than home-made this is what I have found to be the minimum:

Harbor Freight G 1090 grinder with Sorby 445 Jig for fingernail gouges on the wide wheel. Sharpen scrapers on the other wheel. Another inexpensive option is the Delta 6" variable speed grinder with the Sorby 445 jig. The Sorby 445 is easy to set up and works just as well as a Wolverine and does not take up so much room in a small shop. The Sorby Universal jig, however, is not practical since it makes you do all your grinding on the same stone.

Re: Which sharpening system

#8

Sharpen with a Home built jig and hand.honing *LINK*

Jerry Hall

>I am a very new turner, but I have read everything I can find on sharpening, and also am quite skilled at sharpening hand tools for cabinet making. I know what sharp is and its value.

For turning I have been using my 8" grinder with Darrel Feldmate's home made jig. Built in a very short time from scrap. I did this because I wanted to turn NOW and didn't want to wait to decide and take delivery on a TruGrind or Kelton. Guess what? I may not change! I like the idea of individual tool holders- Labled and no adjustment. I have shown my grinds to my teacher and he has no fault with them. If I want a new grind that I can't influence by adjusting the long arm I make a new holder. One other thing: Honing. I turned a bowl of some local green black oak. I had been told it was to stringy to turn nicely, but I have lots of it. It turned out to be true that it was a very rough result, with a tool "sharpened" with a 80grit wheel. So I pulled out my honing "stones" (stick-on sandpaper on 3 1/2" x 10" MDF) that I use for bench chisels and found that rubbing the "stone" carefully across the bevel of my 1/2 bowl gouge and spindle gouge two or three times from 150, 220 and to 320 grit left me a very nice edge. I could hone 4-5 times before I lost the hollow grind and my ability to index my hone across the hollow on the front and back of the bevel. Honing this way took no more time than putting a new grind on. And what a difference in turning! No tearout, no rough surfaces. And no visable 80 grit striations. I don't get why there is so much talk about honing not being a benefit. I think it is faster, far better cut, tool is worn less. I also don't see any need for a Tormak. It can't be any faster or sharper than riding the bevel with hand stones. And it's not hard to do at all.

But again, I am a beginner and no doubt will learn better over time. But I do know that ground tools are not the same as sharpened tools. And that 80grit results are nowhere near 320 grit results, and I don't believe you can cut as long before sharpening again if you start at only 80grit. I think diamond stones might be good for honing also. Sharpening is much more frequent while turning, and diamond would be much more durable.

My 0.5 cents after turning all of THREE oak bowls.


http://www.aroundthewoods.com/

Re: Which sharpening system

#9

Re: Which sharpening system *LINK*

Jean Michel

>Hi All,

A grinder or two in 8" size fast and slow speed with different grinds from 60 to 120 and home made jigs, you can have a look at it on my home page on the link below...

HTH,

Jean.


My Humble site...

👍 This page answered my questions

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