Ebonizing

Re: Ebonizing

Stuart Johnson

>Your problem might be the new steelwool. It is my understanding steel wool is treated in someway to retard rusting. Try washing it with soap and hot water (rinse well) first to get rid of the treatment. I wouldn't think it would make much difference but vinegar comes in different strengths of acidity.

Is it steel, or aluminum ?

Fred in NC

>

Re: Ebonizing

Ken Grunke

>Try using less vinegar--a pint seems like too much for one steel wool pad.

Also, when I last tried this, it didn't look like the vinegar actually dissolved the steel wool--it was still clear after a few hours, but when I applied the stuff the wood turned black within a minute. This was on oak, though. I used only enough vinegar to cover the pad in a small jar.

Maybe it's stainless steel wool?

Re: Ebonizing

John Lucas

>Ed

That's why I use analine dye or India Ink. It's more controllable. Sometimes the steel and vinegar worked great and other times it didn't.

Re: Ebonizing

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>Sounds like you need to do a little "cleaning" on your wool. Steel wool is coated with an oil compound (1 reason why it should never be used on a surface that will have finish applied) that is resisting your vinager.

Rinse the wool pad well with lacquer thinner, then with a little detergent and water to remove the compound. Then put it in the vinager and allow to sit overnight.

Personally, I don't care for the tannin-reactive route because the wood can vary in the amount of reactivity resulting in splotchiness. I, like John, use dye and ink which can be re-applied and controlled to obtain an even stain.

Mark

-2=mail

Re: Ebonizing

Bill Hale / The Wood Spinner

>Ed

Go to a local garage that turns brake drums and get some of the turning metal from their machine. No oil on this and it works great. An Oz. or so to a Qt.. Shake it a couple of times a day and in about three days it is done. There will still be some filings in the bottom but the solution will have reached saturation.

Good turning and be safe

Bill

Re: Ebonizing

Glenn Hodges

>I use India ink.

Re: Ebonizing

Barry Turner

>There are some things that complicate the process with vinegar/steel wool. Oil is used in the manufacture of steel wool. It is possible that the oil on the steel wool is hindering the reaction. I think this stuff works better on woods that have a high tannin content like walnut or oak. I doubt that Bradford Pear is one of these woods. Also, a couple of days in the solution is not nearly long enough. Try a couple of weeks.

I have had good results with black aniline dye. I sand to 400 grit and apply a full wet coat of the solution and let it dry. This raises the grain. I sand with 400 and apply another coat. I repeat until I get a nice deep black. I seal with some spray poly, Deft, etc. I have heard others talk of good results with India ink, but have not personally tried it. Good luck.

Barry

Re: Ebonizing

Al Crandall

>This is not from personal experience, but from personal observation at my friend's shop. He uses steel wool from a place which caters to woodworkers. The oily contaminants from manufacture are kept to a minimum for woodworker's use, unlike the wool at the borg. He packs the container full of wool and adds enough vinegar to fill to the top. Within one day he has a solution which will turn maple into an ebony twin by soaking it for about 8 hours in the solution.

Re: Ebonizing

ken evans

>Hello

Using the woodworkers steel wool made without oil or at least washing the wood with soap and water seem to me to be good suggestions. You might try warming the vinegar. Vinegar is about 5% acetic acid and the reaction rate is quite low if the temperature is low.

Try using inkjet printer ink from your computer printer. It is almost better than real EBONY. I get mine on ebay. It is easily applied , is JET black, and can be controlled quite well.

good luck

Re: Ebonizing

Pete Lamberty

>I have ebonized wood with good results. Clean the steel wool first as others have advised. Rinse it in minerals spirits. I used about a quart of vinegar. I boiled the the vinegar and then droped the steel wool into the hot vinegar. I then left it in the pot until it cooled and then poured everything into a quart jar. In about a week the steel wool will be completely gone. The wood you are using may not have enough tannin in it. Tannin is the chemical that is needed to turn the wood black. Go to Van Dykes and buy the smallest container of bark tea. It may also be called bark tan or something like this. I think directions on mixing will come with it. But if not, mix a couple table spoons with about a pint of water. Then use a sponge brush to apply the vinegar solution onto the wood. Next apply the bark tea solution. Then once again the vinegar solution. Here's the thing, always start with the vinegar solution and end with the vinegar solution. This process will give you a very black colored black. No blue or green tints to the black. Also I had to apply the solutions as directed above about four times to get a good even color of black. Four times means four times (vinegar, bark tea, vinegar). Good luck!

Re: Ebonizing

Duane C.Leach

>Thanks Al. I was trying to keep it a secret. Truth is I use the cheapest 4000 steel wool I can find. I rough turn from green wood,end grain turning only. Then it is filled with cheap steel wool.Pack in as much as you can. It's only about $2.00 for 8 rolls. Then pour in white viniger. Don't let it run over the top. Let it set on a rack over a bucket to catch the drippings.The next morning pour the dripings back into thw bowl.Be carefull any liquid that spills on to the wood where you don't wont it will stain..Repeat this as often as you like untill you have stained everything you want. When done WARSH (redneck spelling) the viniger and steel out, seal with anchor seal,and let dry and finish like a normal bowl. The beaty of this technique is the contrast in color.The black stain flows all the way through the wood end grain where it wants to but not side ways.Leaving streacks of dark stain not unlike spalting. works great on cherry. I will try to post some of my ebonyised bowls when I figure how my cammera works. Duane

Re: Ebonizing *LINK*

joaz hill

>Stove black works great.


http://www.maine-web.com/woodturning