Need for small tail stock

Re: Need for small tail stock

Doug Leite

>Dinyar

Make one.

I would get a bolt, drill and ream a morse taper socket into the end opposite the hex head to fit a live center. Also drill a knoukout rod hole thru this bolt at the same time. This bolt would go into a piece of cold roll steel (crs) that fits into the hole of that extra banjo (1" I assume). The crs shaft would need to be cross drilled and tapped for the bolt previously mentioned. The crs shaft might have to be larger then 1" and turned down to fit the banjo to accomodate the size of the mt on the live center. Example, if you used a #1 mt live center, the large end of the taper is about .475 (almost 1/2") so the bolt would need to be at least 9/16 dia. The #1 taper is about 2 5/32" long, so the bolt needs to be 2 5/32" + 1" for the crs shank + 1-1 1/2" extra for adjusting and a jam nut. This 9/16" bolt should fit the 1" shank but a 1 1/8" shaft would provide more strength in case of a severe catch.

If you want to use a #2 mt center, the shank is .572 (9/16 +) and the bolt would need to be at least 5/8" or 11/16" in dia. I would use a larger shank top dia. for this one, maybe 1 1/8" or preferably, 1 1/4" dia. and turn it down to fit into the baljo. The #2 mt shank length is about 2 5/8" long, so the bolt would need to be a little longer.

I hope that this is clearer then mud. If I was only a % as good as you with CAD, I would make a drawing. If necessary, I will attempt to do a rough drawing and e-mail it to you.

Have fun,

Doug

Re: Need for small tail stock

Peter Teubel

>Kelton Industries makes a tailstock specifically for use with the coring system.

Re: Need for small tail stock

Bob Elliott

>Dinyar,

It seems to me that you could not provide enough push simply by using a banjo with a live center vs a tailstock / live center.

How about if you got your tailstock back far enough so that the handle cleared it by using a #2 to #2 morse taper extension in your original tailstock / live center? Or possibly use two #2 to #2 morse taper extensions together to give you the necessary clearance?

Re: Need for small tail stock

Bob Elliott

>Or you could contact the Master of the McNaughton System, Mike Mahoney: latheguy@aol.com. He seems to have no problems with natural edge bowls!

Short Tail Stock

Greg Jensen

>An alternative is to use larger jaws on your chuck. I would recommend using jaws that will allow a tenon at least 4" in diameter and 5" would be better. If you go to a large tenon you will not dislodge the blank from the chuck. Then a tail stock will not be needed.

Re: Need for small tail stock

Ken Grunke

>Doug's idea is a good one. If you want to go with it, you can get a straight-shank morse taper sleeve instead of using a bolt, and boring the taper yourself. Here's a drawing I whipped up:

Re: Need for small tail stock

Dinyar Chavda

>Amazingly enough, it is clear, Doug! I say, amazing, because, usually, I cannot visualize something like what you are describing, but, for once, I understand what you are talking about. I don't know if I can make it, but I have a friend who might be able to help me if I decide to go that route. Thanks.

Re: Need for small tail stock

Dinyar Chavda

>I'll check it out, Peter.

Re: Need for small tail stock

Dinyar Chavda

>Bob, I understand the point you make re whether this can provide enough push, but it may work together with a steady rest.

The idea of pushing the original tailstock back doesn't work for me because there are times when the handle for the McNaugton crosses the line between the tailstock and the center of the wood.

Good luck over the next few days with the weather