My First Segmented Vessel pic

Re: My First Segmented Vessel pic-2

Doug Leite

>This is the Inside view looking at the 81 pc. feature ring that is only viewable from the top, inside

Aloha

Doug

Re: My First Segmented Vessel pic-3

Doug Leite

>This is a pic of the bottom

Aloha,

Doug

Re: My First Segmented Vessel pic

RonZ

>Shalom Doug,

That's a fine first! I'm only in my 2nd year of woodturning so I won't even attempt anything like that in the near future.

Shalom,

Ron Z

A Walk Off Grand Slam in Your First AB!

steve antonucci

>I've never been a big fan of segmented work, but I like this one a lot! (I'm not a "precise" person...)

How did you do it? Was the neck turned in small increments and slowly built up? Inquiring minds want to know...

Steve

Aloha & Mahalo

Jorge Casta�eda

>Doug,

That is a fine piece, I admire your patience.

Thanks for sharing.

Jorge

Re: My First Segmented Vessel pic

Doug Leite

>Aloha, Ron

Thanks for the compliments. Everything comes to be, in time.

Mahalo,

Doug

Re: Aloha & Mahalo

Doug Leite

>Aloha, Jorge

I am glad that you liked it.

Mahalo

Doug

Re: My process, long winded reply

Doug Leite

>Aloha, Steve

I have been a machinist for almost 40 years, so precise is in my blood. I am glad that you like it. I actually enjoyed the task.

After designing the piece and printing my cut sheet, I cut all of the pieces including the feature ring. I then glued every ring together, and flattened each ring as I started gluing them together. I worked in sets of 3 rings, beginning with the base. I glued the 3 lower rings together, then mounted it on the lathe with the bottom facing out. I turned the shape and then mounted it onto a thick wasteblock mounted on a faceplate. To make everything run true, I turned a small shoulder on the wasteblock to fit into the recess on the bottom piece. When dry, I turned & sanded the top surface of ring #3 flat. Next, I glued the next 3 rings on, turned & sanded true and so on. When I got to the widest part,I finished turning and sanding the whole section to 3/16" thickness. Please note that I also simultaneously started working from the top down in a similar fashion. I also started on a third portion that started at about the portion of the "spherical" piece that reverses direction. I was now gluing/turning/sanding 3 different sections.When the lower part reached this stage, I finished turning all 3 sections and sanded the insides. Let me not forget to mention that a 1/64" deep recess and step was turned on the mating surfaces to provide a true register. Then it was time to assemble and glue all 3 pieces together. The whole assembly just barely fit under the spindle of my floor model drill press, as that is what I used to clamp all sections together. When the glue was cured, I mounted it on the lathe and blended in the outside joint areas and finished sanding the outside.I then removed the wasteblock & faceplate from the top end. Now,I reached in as far as I could and blended in the joints on the inside. Next I buffed the whole thing and applied many coats of Danish Oil. Turned it end for end, driven by my vacuum chuck and supported by 2 steadyrests and removed the lower wasteblock, and dressed up and finished the base.

I hope that this was clear enough, if not, I am open to questions. I will find and post pics of the seperate 3 pieces, if you wanr me to.

Mahalo,

Doug

Re: My process, long winded reply

Roly

>Well Doug, that was quite an effort. I cut and pasted your method so I can refer to it when needed. I still have my first segmented attempt, along with the mis-aligned, staggered joints and various other flaws. Keep it hidden way up in the corner on a shelf so no one can see it. Be proud of that one, Doug, can't wait to see the next one.

Roly ~~

Re: My process, long winded reply

Doug Leite

>Roly,

Thank you for your kind words. This was nothing compared to your trailer. I enjoyed that but I wouldn't have the patience to see it through.

Aloha

Doug

Re: Aloha & Mahalo

Anthony

>Nice work.Where's the Jeannie? LOL

Re: Aloha & Mahalo

JamieDonaldson

>Doug- there is a tool you need to add to your collection- a tripod for the camera. The camera shake hides much of the detail in this nice project, and precision is what segmented work is about.

Brain fade = camera shake

Doug Leite

>Jamie

I agree with you. I do have 2 tripods, but I often (obviously) forget to use them. I don't have the piece to re-photograph at this time. Also, I made a pvc "tent" and have 2 blue photo bulbs. What do you recommend for covering the tent with to difuse the light?

Aloha

Doug, difinitely not a photog

Re: Brain fade = camera shake

JamieDonaldson

>Doug-if your light box is big enough, you will get great results by using 1 500w Q/H work light inside. I make the sides and top from white foamcore panels available at most big office supply stores,and point the light(forward on one side) up at the top to get bounce light all around the turnings. The blue photofloods don't last long- about 3 hrs. average, and if you must place lights out of the box, a frosted plastic shower curtain is a cheap way to diffuse the directional light.

Re: Brain fade = camera shake

Doug Leite

>Jamie,

I have several questions about the lighting.

1) what is the back of the box? Photo paper?

2) is the light behind the back?

3) my frame measures 3'X 4'X 4' Is this large enough? It can be setup either tall, long, or wide.

4) is your light the square one with the little stand and a glass cover?

Thanks for taking the time to help me.

Doug

Re: Brain fade = camera shake

JamieDonaldson

>Doug- your box should be big enough, and you might check that your work light is 500w. I generally use a white vinyl window shade for background- easy to roll up& down and cheap. No light is needed anywhere but inside the front of the box, aimed up at the top to bounce it around.Give as much separation between turning and backdrop as possible,but make sure some light is bounced onto the front of the subject to fill the shadows.This often requires a small bounce card opposite the light source to fill the base shadows by trial & error- move the card around until it looks best.