Looking for a thin parting tool

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

Mike Schwing from Maryland

>Don't know if any are better than the rest, but that Chris Stott narrow parting tool is excellent. I don't often need a parting tool much these days, but I find that Stott tool useful in many other ways as well.

The one thing I'm not so keen on is that the edges are rather sharp, so the can tend to dig into the tool rest and "hesitate". I soften them up just a bit with a file and that solves that.

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

RonZ

>I use the Hamlet one. The Crown is too long and the Chris Stott model's handle isn't as comfortable as Hamlet's rosewood handle.

I use the Crown

Dominic Greco in Richboro PA

>Ron,

I use the Crown thin parting tool. I bought it to use when making peppermills. So far, I've had a good amount of success using it. You just need to be aware that you can't try to "bury the steel" in your work piece. Little bites grasshopper. Little bites.

BTW, this tool also excels at making nice thin scribed lines for wire burning.

See ya around,

Dominic

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

Philip Duffy

>My most successful "tool invention" is a 6" jig saw blade from B&D/others, that has the front 1" ground off, the teeth ground down, a handle, and a parting tool tip. It cuts woods like butter all the way to the bone. Phil

For really small objects...

steve antonucci

>I use a razor saw (Xacto). It parts fast, surprisingly clean, and very quickly up to about 2" or so. The kerf is about 1/64". I just hold it with the lathe running, and very little pressure.

Steve

Question for Phil and Steve

Ron in Drums PA

>Do you have any problems with the blade flexing when starting a cut?

The reason I ask I tried using a 3/4" band saw blade and a hacksaw blade (both had the teeth ground off) I wasn't very successful. Although they made a nice spirals. :-(

Nope.

steve antonucci

>The Xacto razor saw is like a mini backsaw that I bought at a dollhouse shop. It is used to make precise miniatures, and has a rib to reinforce the blade (hence the 2" limit.) Model shop would probably also have it...

the key is to make sure you get the saw vertical. The teeth on it are so small, they are still sharp after 8 year (no surface area to wear out?

S

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

John Lucas

>Ron

I have 2 that I made. One is from a Key hole saw I bought at the flea mkt for .99. I ground off the teeth and shortened it.

The other is a wooden handle paring knife. I'll take a photo tonight and post it.

The keyhole saw flex's slightly but I find if I sharpen it it works well.

The Chris Stott is about the best of the thin parting tools I've played with but is a little thicker than mine.

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

Doug Leite

>I use the Chris Stott tool and like it. One of my friends has one he made from a butter knife and it works fine on soft woods, but not so well on Koa. The Stott tool doesn't need much resharpening.

Aloha

Doug

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

Guest

>I started with an old jigsaw blade too but quickly went to an old reciprocating saw blade. It's longer so it can reach in fairly deep and it's "taller" so that it has much more rigidity and doesn't flex much at all.

I formed the tip into a Firmager-like one and then eased the top of the blade just a tiny bit on both sides (much like how a regular diamond parting tool is widest at the middle except the widest part of this one is at the bottom nearest the cutting tip) so that it wouldn't bind in deep parting cuts.

I put a simple, small handle on it. Cost? Nada.

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

John Lucas

>Ron

Here are my 3 thin parting tools. The one on the top is made from a Keyhole saw. I like the point on this one.

The middle one is made from an industrial hacksaw blade. I ground the point to high on this one so you have to move the tool rest each time you sharpen . The keyhole saw has the tip ground so it's about the same height from the tool rest as my bowl gouge. this means I don't have to adjust the tool rest.

The bottom one is a paring knife. They don't necessarily hold an edge all that well but sharpening only takes about 3 seconds.

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

Jonathan Spool

>While we're on the subject of parting tools. Does anyone think that the 1/16" Sorby fluted parting tool performs better than any of those mentioned above?

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

Dick Hines

>Barbara Gill brought some pieces pf band saw blade to one of our meetings. I ground off the teeth and turnes a handle and I ahve a really thin parting tool.

It flexes some but if you do not try to part off a large piece it works great.

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

Peter Teubel

>I think it does. Mostly because of the decent handle it comes with. All the other thin parting tools have handles that are simply WAY too small.

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

RonZ

>Yes, it does. A fluted parting tool will always give you a cleaner cut If that's what you need.

Thanks John

Ron in Drums PA

>I'm going to try making one of these this weekend.

Re: Looking for a thin parting tool

Dinyar Chavda

>John:

How do you sharpen the Chris Stott parting tool, and others like it? Mine is barely good enough for slicing through butter, and only when it is hot!

Re: Question for Phil and Steve

Philip Duffy

>If you try it and there is too much flex, just grind off another inch or so. I try to chose the blades that have the least flex in the store and then work it down from that point. A sharp point also helps keep the flex down. - - -then there are times when the flex is handy, but that' another story. Phil