Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Russ- Friction Polish
George Van
>In Russ's Corner it is written "If you are into experimenting with finishes; a shellac based friction polish can be mixed from equal parts of shellac, denatured alcohol, and boiled linseed oil. Add a little beeswax, about a teaspoon full to � pint of finish."
Does this mean equal parts by weight (I'm assuming Shellac flakes) or by volume?
I want to try your advise on a bowl.
Thanks, George
Re: Russ- Friction Polish Clarification
Russ
>Equal parts by VOLUME. I never do anything by weight if I can help it.
The "shellac" part is assuming a 2-pound cut because that is the common mixture when most folks make it from flakes. If you are using a commercial ready-mixed shellac from the store, that is also a 2-pound cut.
Technically, the friction polish is 2 parts of shellac in the form of a 1-pound cut and 1 part Boiled Linseed Oil.
If you don't want to mix them together, you can put them in separate squeeze-bottles, and squirt the appropriate amounts on the applicator just before putting it to the wood.
Re: Russ- Friction Polish Clarification
Dave MacLuskie
>Question on the application of the Shellac/BLO combo... Is there a best way to apply it? I've tried something similar on some walnut pens and can never get a smooth glossy surface. I used a soaked rag and press against the surface of the wood.
The shellac always gets tacky or smudgy. Too big of a cut? too little BLO? Bad shellac or BLO or both? Am I not pressing hard enough, or not maybe the lathe isn't on a fast enough setting?
Re: Russ- Friction Polish Clarification *LINK*
George Van
>Thanks for the reply Russ, I will try it shortly.
Dave, go to the link below and your questions may be answered. Russ has a thorough Index on his articles.
George
Russ's Corner
Re: Russ- Friction Polish
Guest
>Be aware that friction polish finishes require sufficient amounts of heat (ie the "friction" part of it) for it to flow and cover evenly. A common problem, among many, is using friction polish finishes on too big of diameter turnings and not having sufficient heat for that wax as it travels away from and back around to your cloth. You'll get ridges and clumps, etc. More finish is NOT the answer though. It just causes more of the same problem.
Higher speed (within reason of course) and using 2 cloths on opposite sides of the turning will help. Using a lower-build (lower resins and waxes) mixture helps too but it doesn't take as good a shine or quick of buildup. A lacquer-based formula with different waxes and resins help this problem too. However, there is a limit on what you can reasonably do with this kind of finish though.
This is why I make my own and sell custom friction polishes. There's only so much you can do with the Hut, Mylands, etc. brands.