Ellsworth grind

Re: Ellsworth grind

Darryl Hansen

>7" from the pivot point of the jig to the surface of the wheel. 2" protrusion of the gouge from the end of the jig. 4" down from the center of the wheel to the level of the pivot point that's a veticle distance down from the center of the wheel then horizontal to the pivot point. I can scan his drawing and email it if you likel..Darryl

Re: Ellsworth grind

Russ

>Grind it free-hand and you don't need no numbers {8>)

Seriously, the numbers are always meaningless to me because everyones grinding jig is set up with some differeces in dimensions, and then add the differences from wear on the wheel. If you are using the Oneway grinding jig, it isn't that difficult to move it around until you get it close to right. I say "close" because I don't think you can get "exactly there" with the Wolverine jig, but you can get close enough.

The difference between the Ellsworth profile and the other Irish or O'Neill tool profiles is in the angles. The Ellsworth profile starts out at 65-70 degrees between the bottom of the flute and the bevel at the tip, and maintains this same angle all the way around and along the side. Personally, I prefer a slightly thicker 75-degree angle at the tip, with the sides of the profile having a much thinner angle of something about 40-degrees.

What this means, if you are using an adjustable Oneway grinding jig, is that you will have to make the tool roll farther into the wheel as you swing the jig around to grind the sides of the profile. To do that, you will have to position the adjustable leg more towards the upper position where you would grind a spindle gouge. My guess is that that you would have to position the leg somewhere just upward from the mid-point and work from there. It may also be necessary to put the tool in the jig with a little more projection than you would normally be using. Try about 2-1/4" for starters. Set the rest to give the nose angle, and check the tool rotation as you swing the jig around to the side. It doesn't take too many trials before you can start to see the interaction between tool projection, rest position, and the angle of the adjustable leg on the jig.

Be aware that you will get a smoother curved cutting edge with a parabollic flute as on a Henry gouge that with the "U" shape of a Sorby, or the straight "V" shape that some of the others use.

Re: Ellsworth grind

John Lucas

>Darryl

That's what I was looking for. I wanted to compare that to how I have mine set up. John

Re: Ellsworth grind

John Lucas

>Russ

You and I work the same way apparently. I have a much longer side grind and I like the wings to be quite sharp. I have 3 different jigs I've been playing with. 2 are like Ellsworth and then I have the wolverine but it's set up differently and gives me a grind similar to what you describe.

I also freehand grind several tools to get special profiles or to change them if needed for a special project.

I'm trying to answer a question for a friend on setting his grinder up and thought I would look at the numbers for the ellsworth set up.

Thanks for the response.

Re: Ellsworth grind

Steve Worcester

>While it is just a guidline, the fill photos and text are available on the woodcraft site at

http://www2.woodcraft.com/pdf/77B61.pdf

Re: Ellsworth grind

John Lucas

>Steve

Thanks. That should help a lot. John