skew angle of cut

Re: skew angle of cut

Ken Grunke

>Maybe your bevel angle is too wide. This was the case for me when I started using the skew--I was able to get it razor sharp no problem, but had trouble cutting around a curve without having to drastically swing the skew around from one side to the other.

I was afraid that grinding a keener edge (smaller angle between bevels) would make it catchier, but the opposite turned out to be true. And you don't have to move the handle around so much.

Now, the included bevel angle on my skews is about 30 degrees, where it originally was about 45.

Re: skew angle of cut

Fog Tanner

>I have 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" skews, several of each. The angle is the same on all, 40 degrees, and a slightly radiused profile. More than 40 and the chisel doesn't work right for me - a little to long to get a cut, less and its too agressive and more prone to catching. The 40 degree is also easier for me to keep the bevel rubbing, which may be your problem.

I do most of the work towards the headstock, with the longpoint down and leading. I keep the angle of the cutting edge at around 45 degrees to the axis of the piece. When cutting to the right I have the longpoint up and the cutting edge at 45 degrees to the axis. This puts the chisel around 15 degrees from vertical.

In either case I can get a ribbon of shavings. You might try starting your cut with the heel of the bevel and bring the handle up until you start getting a cut. Again with the edge at around 45 degrees to the axis. Don't push the tool with your arms, but lock them close to your body and move from your right foot to your left, keeping the bevel in contact with the wood. You should be able to make a very delicate or heavy planing cut. The point of the cut should be just behind the point. Never allow the point of cut to go past the halfway point of the edge, or you'll most likely get a catch. If you are trying to force the edge into the wood off the bevel you will most likely get a surprise and a spiral on your piece.

When done correctly you don't really have to have a death grip on the handle. Only rarely do I have to hold the handle tightly for certain cuts. And sharpness cannot be over emphasized. I have a Tormek, so I am able to get a razor edge on the chisel. Another reason for the 40 degree angle, it lasts longer. If the edge will slice paper and not tear it, it is sharp enough and you most likely not need to sand. A coarse stone will leave a jagged edge which can load up with fine fibers and stall the blade.

Good luck, and if you stay with it, get yourself a 3/4" skew. This has become my favorite, as it has a long bevel which makes the planing cuts very easy. Of course, remember all this is what works for me and you will get a number of other ways to use the tool. Try them all and find what works for you and practice. I got my start from the Raffin tape Turning Wood, and found what worked for me. It also helped having a hands on with Raffin when I first started turning, which is where some of the above came from.

Regards,

Fog

Re: skew angle of cut

Brad Vietje

>Dennis,

I'm not the professional that Alan Lacer is, but a question occurs to me: Are you trying to cut a bead or "V" in one pass with the skew? I only get the condition you describe in two situations -- when the cut is just too heavy, or when the angle of the cutting edge to the rotating wood is too small. If the cutting edge is nearly vertical, (close to perpendicular to the rest), you are pushing the cutting edge into a wall of wood with no shear angle. Most turners recommend the edge be presented to the wood at roughly 45 degrees, though I often get good results down to about 30 degrees.

If you are taking too big a cut, say on a bead, try marking out where the top of the bead will be, and also where the deepest part of the "V", or cove will be, between the bead and the next feature, Start by taking smaller cuts toward this "V", making each pass a little deeper, all the while trying not to cut anything from the top of the bead.

I also have had good success doing beads with a very long-bevel detail or spindle gouge, sharpened at about 25 degrees, and just using the skew to clean out the "V", or gutter between two beads. If you do this, you'll need to start by rubbing the bevel on the top of the bead (no cut at all here), and starting a cut to either side by rotating the gouge right over onto its side to get into the gutter without messing up the opposing face of the next bead or other feature.

Best of luck -- and Safe Spinning,

Brad Vietje

Thetford, VT

Re: skew angle of cut

John Lucas

>An extension to brad's. when you make a V cut your actually cutting both sides of the V. If you just push the tool into the cut to form a V it will only go in so far before it stops. Ideally you aim the left bevel of the skew at the angle you want the left side of the V and then make slicing cut by touching the wood with the long point of the skew and then lifting the handle.

Then you do the same thing for the right shoulder of the V by aiming the right hand bevel of the skew where you want to go and again arcing the cut down into the wood.