maple and mahogany (PICs)
Mike Schwing from Maryland
>A different sort of "segmented" turning. 13" wide, thinnest piece is 1/16", widest 17/32" Lacquered and buffed. Comments and suggestions welcomed.
Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
maple and mahogany (PICs)
Mike Schwing from Maryland
>A different sort of "segmented" turning. 13" wide, thinnest piece is 1/16", widest 17/32" Lacquered and buffed. Comments and suggestions welcomed.
wish we could edit our own posts!
Mike Schwing from Maryland
>Sorry for the dupe pic.
Re: maple and mahogany (PICs)
Ruth
>Mike,
I really like the effect you've achieved. It's quite eye catching.
Re: maple and mahogany (PICs)
Bert Smith
>Very nice! I really like the different sized segments; my eye is drawn to the center and the segment layout pulls to the rim. Great piece.
Bert
Re: wish we could edit our own posts!
John Lucas
>Nice Job Mike. I also like the varying thickness of the pieces.
Re: maple and mahogany (PICs) *LINK*
RevDoug
>Another nice piece Mike. Like it so much I think I'm going to try one now that I've got a table saw worth a dime. We just bought the new "Pro" saw from Sears. It was on sale last night.
Turn 'em round,
RevDoug
Wood Spun Round
tips for you
Mike Schwing from Maryland
>Great Doug! A few suggestions if you don't mind me butting in? Set the fence DEAD ON accurate front to back, and reference the same saw tooth blade (unplugged) when aligning the fence. I have a micrometer attached to a long sled that I run along the fence, it'll show .001" off. You want the strips you cut to be exactly the same width end to end or the effect is compounded and you end up with pieces that won't line up when you cut and flip them for reglue.
For normal table saw work I like the rear of the fence about .002" further away than the front but not for this stuff. People think I'm nuts measuring that close. Its OK for furniture to be .003" off or more but not for things like this.
Also, your cuts need to be glue joint ready off of the saw, so throw away the blade that came with it and buy something better. I use a Forrest WWII, but I had decent results with a Freud Diablo, too. (way cheaper)
CLAMP, CLAMP, CLAMP. I put 6 or 8 big Jorgie, Bessey and pipe clamps on the glue up - all done at one time, using Titebond WHITE glue (long open time) and use as much pressure as I can possibly extract out of them. I need to see glue squeeze out or I get nervous.
I have tried to glue them up in 3 sections but it never works out accurately enough for my demanding results. You should see the things Mrs. Schwing tries to extract from the firewood pile. (or used to anyway)
Hope this helps, didn't mean to tell you stuff you already knew. Lots of experience here.