inexpensive duplicators ?

Re: inexpensive duplicators ?

Russ Fairfield

>The least expensive duplicator is you, and your ability to turn a spindle.

This is an easier task with a story stick to make all of the elements in the spindle at the same height, and a pair of spring-calipers to make them all the same diameter.

You may have to make 4 or 5 throw-aways for practice, but you will be happier with the results. This will probably take less time than setting up and learning how to use the duplicator.

Re: inexpensive duplicators ?

Ruth

>I agree with Russ. Spindle work is my primary means of income. I bought a duplicator and sold it after 2 weeks. First it scrapes the shape, it doesn't really cut smooth so you have to either go over the whole turning free-hand or do twice the sanding using a duplicator.

After the 6th one, you won't even use the calipers. Trust me.....have I ever lied to you?

Ruth

Re: inexpensive duplicators ?

Sam Simpson

>Hi Y'all,

This question crops up from time to time. Like Ruth, I've been there done that. But I didn't sell mine. It is a Delta. The only piece of true junk I own. I would love to offer it up to anyone who wants to take it for a test drive. On one condition, when you are through with it you promise not to throw hammers at it, and pass it on to the next poor sap who asks the same question and needs convincing of the utter futility of it. Trouble is, it is in Houston, and I'm not paying shipping. Other than that it is free.

I agree with both Russ and Ruth, that the work will go faster with just a story stick and some diameter aids. I'm going to try and attach a picture of some aids I have made from a set of wrenches. They will be of help in the beginning, and later they can be used for dimensioning round tennons and such.

Regards Sam Simpson.

Better Pic 

Sam Simpson

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Re: Better Pic

John Lucas

>Sam

I found a ton of outside calipers on sale at Grizzly for about $2 each. I bought a handful. At first I used them a lot then I started doing like Ruth says and just eyeballing them after marking with the story stick.

George Hatfield said he uses the outside diameter to judge size rather than measuring the thickness. For example a bead might be 1/4" thicker than the main shaft. The 1/4" thickness is easy to judge visually.

On long flowing curves I measure the high point and low point and then try to get the curves to match the original. I used to measure a diameter every inch and then connect them. This is way too slow.

Re: Better Pic

Stuart Johnson

>Sam, why did you clip the one side?

I thought I might have to explain :)

Sam Simpson

>Hi Y'all,

Stuart, the open ended wrench is sharpened on the short leg to produce a cutting tool. (with the same purpose and action as a parting tool) The tool is placed on a steady rest and offered to the work with the cutting edge on top and the guide leg under the rotating work, and cuts to a depth that is an exact dimension. When it reaches the dimension it ceases to cut. Leverage is down on the back of the handle so that a lifting pressure delivers all of the force to the guide leg. With this action the tool can be safely advanced into the workpeice and produces a clean cut.

The particular set in the photograph where produced from a set of wrenches purchased at Walmart for $7, and have seen steady use for almost ten years. I use them mostly to put a round tennon onto small turned legs and stretchers that are used quite often on occasional tables. The tennons always fit a matching forstener drill size exactly. I have them in increments of 1/8" from 3/8" to 1"

Regards Sam Simpson.

What a great idea! Thanks!

John Crissman

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What a slick idea.

Stuart Johnson

>Sam, Maybe you should take a few shot of the tools in action and write up an article and send to Ellis.

Is it normal to make 40 balusters by hand :-)

davidewhiting

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