How sharp is sharp enough for turning?

Re: How sharp is sharp enough for turning?

TDaniel

>If you do not have a jig, get one. The one for the Tormek works fine and will give you a very sharp gouge. Sometimes you will feel the edge to be just fine off the Tormek but there will be times the edge needs more "bite". The coarser the wheel, the more "bite" you get, kinda like a serrated steak knife. A Sorby 445 jig is the same as the one that comes on the Tormek except for the mounting bracket. You can use it on a regular grinder.

TD

sorry - allow me to clarify....

Brian Gray in Sandusky, OH

>I own the wolverine jig for gouges.

My question is whether or not a slow speed grinder alone is getting my gouges sharp enough, or should I go over to the Tormek, where I'll get closer to razor sharp.

Thanks,

bg

Re: sorry - allow me to clarify....

Mike Schwing from Maryland

>Brian, I am far from the expert on this, and my reply will probably get torn to shreds, but here goes;

I have never found a "duller" gouge more useful than a sharper one. Never ever!

I believe in using my gouges as sharp as I can reasonably get them. Reasonably sharp is relative to the sharpening tools one has, and the patience to use them. For me, that means razor sharp as I too have a Tormek and the leather wheel, plus the gouge honing leather wheel.

My most often used gouge is an Ellsworth in a large Kelton handle. I use a diamond credit card on the Tormek to dress and level it (a snap compared to the standard Tormek tools), and I use the wheels, both of them, to hone the edges of the gouge.

So my process is - touch up the edges on the stone using the proper jig, then I move to the gouge honing wheel where I hone the concave edge of the gouge for maybe 20 seconds. I then use the large leather wheel to hone the outside edge. The edge is so sharp at that point that it will cut you readiliy if you get it near skin, and it works wood like you wouldn't believe.

I find that when it starts to dull, I can go back to the leather wheel once or twice before I need to return to the stone. I don't normally charge the wheel with the honing compound and it has totally worn off on the large leather wheel, the smaller one seems to be made of different material and holds the charge longer.

If I can recall the Ellsworth video properly, David recommends not honing the edge after the grinding stone. I simply find it a better tool when I do so. For me the two edges do not even compare.

Re: sorry - allow me to clarify....

TDaniel

>Brian, there are many various opinions on this and none of them are wrong. A lot will depend on how you present your tool to the work. Some people cut with the tip of their gouge and some cut with the side (like me). If you cut with the side keeping the cutting edge at 45 degrees you will prefer the 1800 rpm grinder with a 60 or 80 grit wheel; if you cut with the tip and tend to keep the handle high you might prefer another set up. None of us have all the answers; it really depends on how you interface with your tools.

TD

Sharp?

Bob Hackett

>I agree with Mike in most aspects.I use the gouge right off the grinder for roughing out,The "serrated knife" edge seems to deal with green wood better and also saves time as I sharpen often when cutting things like stumps and burls.

I always hone the gouges for finish cuts and it makes a noticeable difference in the quality of the surface and the control of the cut.

I don`t own a Tormek and just hone at the lathe with a very fine diamond pocket hone.For scrapers I use the Veritas burnishing jig and for those who haven`t tried one I highly recomend you visit someone who has one and do just that.The burr left by the jig is stronger,lasts longer and cuts better than the burr left by just grinding.

In short,the best way to get a good appreciation of what is going on at the edge is to get a jeweler`s loupe,magnifier,etc and use it during sharpening.Once you really see the edge and then use it you gain a better understanding of what "appropriately sharp" really means.

Mainely,Bob

Another Question.....

Brian Gray in Sandusky, OH

>If the shavings that are hitting the back of my hand are pretty hot (not intolerable, but pretty hot), is that normal, or is that a sign that my gouge needs sharpened?

Thanks.

Re: Another Question.....

Peter Teubel

>Hot shavings are the norm when turning dry wood. Green wood gives you a shower.