Crotch Cutting (ouch!) Question

Re: Crotch Cutting (ouch!) Question *LINK*

Richard Allen

>Here is a like to an answer to this question from a previous thread.


Answer in previous thread

Re: Crotch Cutting (ouch!) Question

Richard Allen

>Hi Mark

The drawing is a bit misleading. The line of cut is shown clearly enough. I guess I thought anyone useing a chainsaw would know a safe way to use the saw. Of course anyone can find an unsafe way to use most any tool.

Thanks

Thanks all! Big help. :-)

Thomas Skaggs, Foothills of Mount Level

>

Re: Crotch Cutting Error, Maybe

Barbara Gill, Remlik Virginia

>Mark, my husband uses a rip chain with a 36" bar to split logs lengthwise all the time. It is the best and most efficient way to split them so they will fit on my sawmill. A traditional chain will not give as straight a cut.

On occasion we stand a log on its end (with the tractor) to make splitting easier. Of course the log is a monster and its weight holds it in place. A small log would have to be secured.

No Picture

Barbara Gill, Remlik Virginia

>I posted a picture with the above post. It showed up in the preview but not in the post.

Re: Rip Chain

TDaniel

>Rip chains are hard to sharpen but are not more dangerous than other chains. A skip tooth chain is a better choice in most situations. Cutting in line with growth rings is always a problem; a slight angling of the saw will solve the problem of long curls that will not break off. Technique is the key rather than equipment. As far as the proper way to cut a crotch......experiment. There are several interesting grain patterns that can be obtained; splitting the "Y" is one way but there are other interesting ways to cut a crotch. Try all options and see what you get. Nothing beats experience so go for it.

TD

Re: Rip Chain

Barbara Gill, Remlik Virginia

>I guess I better clarify something for anyone who does not know Dan my husband. :-) He is definitely not a trained professional lumberjack. He is a farmer and a Pitmaster and a really good cook. He just happens to be able to cut a nice straight line with that big chainsaw; a skill I don't particularly want to develop. I will stick to my smaller chainsaws. :-)

One more thing I should clarify is that I really don't make a living at my sawmill it is somewhere between a hobby and a profession but not really either. :-)

I don't dispute that chainsaws can be dangerous especially when in the hands of someone who doesn't have a clue. I just wanted to clarify that your statement that a rip chain should never be used in a hand held chainsaw was not exactly accurate. As Terry said above, the proper use of one is really no more dangerous than using a crosscut chain. The key here is proper use.

Another option

Gary Evans, Tallassee, TN

>If the crotch is big enough, and you want a nice blank for a hollow vessel, you can lay the crotch so that the plane of the Y is parallel to the ground. Cut down through each pith to make a V shaped blank that will have crotch figure on two sides. This works really well when you find a crotch with 3 or 4 branches.

Gary

More than one kind?

TDaniel

>Mark, the ripchains that I use are of two styles. One is merely a skip-toothed chain (extra blank links between teeth, equivalent to using a 24T blade on your table saw for ripping instead of a 60T); the other has a left side cutter, followed by a right side cutter, and then a straight tooth to pull the shavings out. I have only bought one of these ripchains because they are difficult to sharpen and they do not cut any better than a skip-tooth. I have seen another style of ripchain but have never used that one. Cutters on it were not at all similar to a conventional chain; I think this may be the one you are referring to. The important thing about chains is to always have a minimum of 3 teeth engaged in the wood. Also, it is important to tilt the saw slightly so that you are always crossing some growth rings. Whenever you saw in perfect alighnment with growth rings the shavings will not break off and will quickly jam the sprocket cover. Slightly tilting the saw will take care of this problem.

TD

one other thing.... *LINK*

TDaniel

>Mark, a chainsaw mill is slicing across the grain, 90 degrees to the heart of the log. We turners sometimes saw in this manner but most of the time when we split a log we do it by sawing with the bar in line with the heart of the log. Doing it this way is much faster but can clog the sprocket guard with the long "chips". The chain that is recommended for a mill is a different chain. I agree with you, most of the local suppliers don't know one from the other. A specialty company like Bailey's or Madsens is where one should go for advice. Ripping a log that is longer than the bar is certainly dangerous, no matter which chain you are using. Kick-back will be fast and hard. On my site you will see a 44" diameter log being split with a 36" bar. I certainly would not advise anyone to do this unless you have many hours of chainsaw operation behind you. You advice is good; ripping long logs with a chainsaw can be dangerous; no matter which chain you use.

TD


http://www.thebowlmaker.com

Re: Oh, Yeah

Barbara Gill, Remlik Virginia

>Right, a Granville chain is for use with Alaskan type chainsaw mills. That is not what I am talking about. Our ripping chains are skip tooth, sharpened to about 10-15 degrees. They are 3/8" pitch and go on a honking big chainsaw with a 36" bar.

I doubt that a Granville would even fit a regular chainsaw; would it? It seems as if the problem is terminology. :-)

Bill's

Barbara Gill, Remlik Virginia

>My sisters, mother and I try to get together once a year and do somehing together. This is aside from the usual family visits. It happens to be the same time as Bill's event.