>I have a request to make knitting needles for an alpaca farm to sell at their booth during their shows. They have access to a fairly unique market, and I can probably make the needles, but I have never made one, and have no idea even how to size the things.
Any experienced knitting needle folks out there who can share information. Anybody who just wants to take a stab at a logical answer as to how to go about this?
>How about going to the local yarn store to get some knitting needles to use as patterns? You can ask the help there what would be the best sizes to make. They might even be interested in buying some from you once you're into production.
>I have considered making some for my wife who is an avid knitter (and pretty good too). Problem is the sizing has to be rather exact. Nice wooden needles are manufactured (and I'm sure they use a pattern making jig of some kind) and available. I decided it wasn't worth the headache. If you come up with a good way to make them, I'd be interested.
I don't know jack about knitting or needles, only that knitters are kinda picky about their needles. Hey, I'm up for making just about anything but I have to wonder if making needles is worth all the trouble? Maybe they are but if it were me I would just advise buying them.
>You might find someone, or a library, with a collection of WOOD Magazine. There was an article on making knitting needles in Wood Magazine, Issue No. 77, February 1995, page 40
>Whenever I've looked into making long, thin turnings, I come to the conclusion that while a small steady rest of some sort is needed, a live center that PULLS instead of pushing would be handy, too. Anyone know where to find/how to construct such a thing ?
>From personal experience, long thin turnings are best turned: vertically so they can't sag; without a steady so the wood can "relax" as material/stress is removed; with a small screw drive so that little pressure (plus or minus) is required at the bottom tailstock, again so they can "relax"; and slowly so they can't whip. Turning slowly necessitates using a router for milling. Although steadies are problematic, vibration dampers can be useful. Once the stick is almost to final size it can be spun up for sanding on a normal lathe, and at higher speeds won't whip, as it is in balance. Admittedly, my sticks are over 6 feet long, about 1 1/8 inch dia. and tapered to about 5/8 both ends, but the same principles would apply.
>Evidently, some folks pay good money. The lady who wants me to make them has called twice, and says that, at the last Alpaca show she was at, a guy sold out at $15-$25/pair, depending on length.
I would just go to Big Lots and buy plastic bowls, but some folks pay big bucks for wood. Go figure.
Always pursuing the "happy buck," I'll give it a shot....if I figure out what I'm doing.
>I just got my first lathe this year and have been turning pens for about 4 months. My wife crochets and for fun one evening, I grabbed a scrap of white oak, probably not the best choice, and turned it down with some knobs and such on it. The end with the hook I left round almost like a snake that swallowed a golf ball, but just big enough to carve the hook. It took about a half an hour, but I just looked at one of her hooks and carved and sanded until it was the right shape and very smooth. She used it and liked it, but she didn't like the fancy crap I put on the handle. I'll try to find a picture if you like. Good luck.