Coring a platter blank

Re: Coring a platter blank

JamieDonaldson

>Andi- I don't think any of the coring tools will make such a controlled shallow cut- at least I doubt that it can be done with any degree of control with such a thin cut.

Re: Coring a platter blank

Mark Kauder

>Andi,

Though I have never used on, you might try the Sorby/Stewart Slicer - it is a straight coring tool. However it is fairly thick, and you might lose too much material,

You might get some one to make you what would be, in effect, a long parting tool - maybe 1/4" thick, with a long handle for leverage, and do it with that. We are only talking about 7"

Just my thoughts.

Mark

Re: Coring a platter blank

GeeSeaWhy

>I would proceed with great caution, if at all. I have the Kelton system and I haven't used it enough to be sure I'm using it correctly but I find it has a tendency to cut deeper than intended as the cut proceeds. One piece I cored recently was 8" diameter and 2.5" deep. The core was supposed to be 5.5" (it was) by 1.5". It came out at 2.25", cutting into the tenon on the outer blank. Ouch.

It may well be that I just haven't figured out how to use the system properly but I did notice the same effect with the straight slicer I used to use - it would cut deeper than intended, leaving me desperately trying to make another cut closer to centre or break the core free before I lost the outer blank. I suspect it might just be a "feature" of the forces on the cutter that make it want to do that.

Graeme

Re: Coring a platter blank

Bill Grumbine, Kutztown PA

>Hi Andi

I will take an opposing point of view here. I do not have much experience with the Oneway coring tool, but I know it was developed partly in response to the alleged inability to control the Kel McNaughton tool. One advantage the Oneway has (and about the only one I think) is that once it is set up, you can get very precise repeatability with it. Having written that, now the chore is to get it right the first time. The worst that can happen is that you won't get the core you like, and since it would be reduced to shavings anyway, you haven't lost anything but some time and effort, and you have gained some knowledge in the process.

First, start with some wood which is not so important, and which is of the same size. Use the largest knife you have, which will give you the shallowest curve. Make some practice cuts, being sure to err on the side of making the main blank too thick. It is no fun at all to end up with a beautiful core and have a piece of round firewood with a hole in the center for your largest piece. On your practice piece, which you should be using anyway, since you haven't given the tool a try yet, you can take "shavings" out of the center - i.e. you can core nothing but shavings as you practice getting the angle of the tool right. This saves you having to slap a new blank on the lathe for each trial. The main thing you want to avoid is hitting the chuck with the coring tool tip. That is scary, not to mention potentially expensive. I have never had that experience, but I have come close a few times. You are going to want to start with the tool fairly far outboard, so that your angle of entry is as shallow as possible. I like to lay the knife I am going to use on top of the blank and look down on it from above to visualize where it is going to go and where it will end up.

Once you get the blank of practice wood cored to the size and shape that you want, it is simply a matter of repeating everything you did on the last cut with your good wood to get the core. If you were using a KM tool, this would be iffy, as it is more of a freehand tool, but since the Oneway is bolted down, you should be able to swing the kife through the wood with confidence.

Additionally, you may want to consider a glue block for holding the blank. With it being this shallow and taking a core to boot, you do not want to waste any wood on a tenon, no matter how small. Ken Bullock up in Canada has a great system where he uses hot melt glue to hold pieces, and with a block of sufficient size (diameter), it would work for coring.

Good luck with it. I will confess that in all the coring I have done, I cannot recall coring a piece this thin. That might sound wanton, but when it comes to wood, even highly figured stuff, I am rarely wantin' (sorry, I couldn't resist!).

Bill

Re: Coring a platter blank

John Lucas

>Bill gives excellent advice. I tried using a straight boring bar a la advice from Rude Osolnik years ago. It works for bit bowls but for platters it takes too big a bite. I'm a big fan of running tests on scrap. Glue up some junk wood if you have to. I rescue 2x12 pieces from home construction and use these for test pieces on a lot of work. They would probably work for you on this test.

Re: Coring a platter blank

Richard Allen

>Hi Andie

You have been given some good advice by Bill.

There are a couple of things to keep in mind for the Oneway system.

Just follow the instructions for setup of the coreing system that are on the vedio.

Plan to start your cut with a parting tool. The coreing tool has a tendency to skate at the start. Once the sholder of the coreing cutter is in the wood it will work fine. So part about 1/2" in the direction you expect the coreing knife to take.

Make sure the cutter is sharp before you start. The coreing system is least efective across the bottom of the cut. Since you will be making most of your cut across the bottom expect slow going.

Expect to clean up the surface left by the tool to a depth of 1/4". So leave enough thickness for the larger piece to permit that much "clean-up".

I would setup the system so that 1/2" - 3/4" of wood was left in the bottom of the main platter.

Your core will be less than 1" thick. Keep in mind that the prize is the main platter not the core. The core is an extra. Don't cut the main platter so close that it is in jeporHi Andie

You have been given some good advice by Bill.

There are a couple of things to keep in mind for the Oneway system.

Follow the instructions for setup of the coring system that are on the video.

Plan to start your cut with a parting tool. The coring tool has a tendency to skate out at the start. Once the shoulder of the coring cutter is in the wood it will work fine. So part about 1/2" in the direction you want the coring knife to take.

Make sure the cutter is sharp before you start. The coring system is least effective across the bottom of the cut. Since you will be making most of your cut across the bottom expect slow going.

Expect to clean up the surface left by the tool to a depth of 1/4". So leave enough thickness for the larger piece to permit that much "clean-up".

I would setup the system so that 1/2" - 3/4" of wood was left in the bottom of the main platter.

Your core will be about 1" thick at the bottom. Keep in mind that the prize is the main platter not the core. The core is an extra. Don't cut the main platter so close that it is in jeopardy just so you can get a nice core.

With all that said you should be able to easily get a nice 12" plate to go with your 14" platter.

Thanks

Richard

Re: Coring a platter blank

AndiWolfe

>Thanks for the tips! I do have some yellow poplar for trial runs. I wouldn't usually worry about coring the interior, but this is instrument-grade quilted maple that cost a fortune, and I'd like to have some extra pieces salvaged, if possible.

I'll think about my strategy and try your suggestions on scrap blanks.

Thanks! Andi

Re: Coring a platter blank

Robert Savit

>Dear Andi,

If your design for the original platter is appropriate, another route to go is to try to remove a ring of material from what will be the backside of the platter. If you were designing something with a relatively wide, not too thick rim, you could get a circular piece, probably over 1" thick without too much trouble. Just cut in from the backside to the appropriate depth at the distance that marks the width of your rim, and then use a slicer or parting tool to come in from the edge. I've done this a couple of times on nice wood, and it's pretty straightforward. Just make sure the kerf for the slice from the outside is a little larger than the width of the tool. You can use the circular piece in a variety of ways; even for some small shallow bowls if it's wide enough.

Best,

Bob

Re: Coring a platter blank

Arch

>Andi, I know you asked about using your new toy for coring plus as usual, I'm off topic and probably missing something. I hesitate to follow good suggestions, but why not use your old toy, aka your bandsaw, to slab the blanks and with your talent, turn and decorate two great one inch platters? Anyway, all best, Arch

Exactly what I was thinking.

Dave Smith

>Resaw the wood and glue a waste block on the bottom. I have done this with wood as thin as 3/4" with good results.

Good luck Andi.

Dave Smith

Time to get busy in Longview, wA.

Re: Coring a platter blank

Andi Wolfe

>I can't do that now because the blanks are already in round form. The plank was about 4 feet long by 15" wide. I don't have a saw that can handle that large of plank, so I took it to a colleague's industrial-sized saw (4 ft swing) to process into platter blanks. It was only afterwards that I decided I should try to save some of the wood.

I'm cogitating my options. . .

Andi

Re: Coring a platter blank

Arch

>Yep Andi you did say "about 14 in. _diameter_" which to cogitating people implies that the blanks are round. Can't your colleague use square scraps as a jig to hold the blanks for resawing? Or better yet, why don't I just let you enjoy thinking about how best to core thin blanks? :) Arch

Re: Coring a platter blank

Doug Trembath

>Andi, it isn't all that often I find myself agreeing with Arch, but having seen your platters, I'd say build a quick "L" shaped support, hot glue the blank to it, and using the fence opposite the support, resaw the blank. Then just cut the remainder off in the same way. I've done this, it's pretty easy and relatively safe.

(Take it easy Arch, just ribbin' ya.)

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

Re: Coring a platter blank

Arch

>Hey Doug. Don't know how your post slipped by. Most that agree with me are censored for good & sufficient reasons and not just to save bandwidth. :) Best, Arch